After leaving Jericoacoara we returned to the airport of Fortaleza (6h bus drive/85B$/22€). The flight to São Luis was scheduled by 5:35am next day. We had a 6h wait at the airport. It's always good to find time to catch up with internet communication and the civilisation we left back home in London. It took 1h15min to fly from Fortaleza to Sao Luis with Azul Airlines (240B$/70€). On the flight we had the usual snacks: crisps/biscuits/nuts and a drink, all included in the flight ticket. The bus trip would be 12h for 150B$/45€. It was a Sunday and public transport was limited once we landed in São Luis. The idea was to visit other back laid destinations such as Atins. To get down to Atins from São Luis it was necessary to catch the bus passing from the other side of the airport (10min walk). After leaving the airport we took a left and followed the main road, crossed it and hailed the bus heading towards Barreinhas (9am/6h/50B$/18€). As I said, it was Sunday so once we arrived at Barreinhas (3pm), there was no public transport to Atins. Luckily there were two other Brazilian tourists who were keen on sharing a private boat hire (45min/300B$/90€). We split the cost between four of us (22.5€) and went for the most picturesque and amazing river ride experience during this trip across the North-East coast of Brazil. It reminded me of my last year trip across Central America
In fact, the journey from São Luis up to Amazonia was the start of the best wildlife experience of this trip. Miles of sand dunes, rivers and the Atlantic Ocean coast. Encounters with monkeys, eagles, iguanas, wild horses and donkeys made the whole trip so special and exciting. The boat trip along the Rio Preguica from Barreirinhas to Atins was such a priceless experience that I would recommend it to everyone. Except people suffering from any kind of physical impairment. The shaking effect on the boat caused by the opposing current made the whole experience was quite intense...After a one and a half hour ride, I was wondering if all my organs were still connected and my body was in one piece.
On the way to Atins we stopped by the sand dunes. They were located in a little fishing village that had some playful monkeys. Then we visited another fishing village with a military lighthouse accessible to the public. It was supposed to be open up to 5pm. However, we arrived there ten minutes past 5pm and still go in and managed to climb up approximately five hundred steps. The view was mind blowing! The river meeting the sea and the whole scene of tropical vegetation (coconut and palm trees) surrounding it was amazing.
When we arrived at our final destination of Atins, it was quite late (6pm). I wandered around the beach to find some place to camp. I walked into an area where there were suites for rent. It was in the middle of nowhere with a sea front. It was owned by an Italian from Naples - Antonio. He was renting out suites from 350B$/100€ up to 700B$/200€ per night. The place was simple and small. This Napolitanian owner converted his house 6 years ago in 2011 into a fancy pousada with 4 suites. He was also running the fancy restaurant when there was demand (open by special request). I had a chat with him and he explained to me that this location of developing little sea fish village of Atins next to the dunes is being eaten by coastal erosion. They estimate that in a few years it will disappear from the map. He mentioned that his property was further from the coast. His American neighbour had the propriety in front of his next to the sea. Unfortunately, the American owner's propriety disappeared due to a natural disaster, taken by the sea.
The 350m2 garden owned by Antonio - the Italian owner of Pousada shrank to 60m2. Due to the global warming, the earth changes are already noticeable like this and there is no doubt that maybe in a hundred years some places on our planet will disappear forever under water.
I was desperate to find some land by the beach where I could build my Body and Mind Centre. I was a bit perplexed after I heard the story of Antonio. Finally, we camped on the beach under the million of stars in front of the lagoon.
This place is in a very early stage of development and so the touristic infrastructure is basic. The cost of living is quite high, it's difficult to find an economic balance. For example, to have a full set intercontinental breakfast one has to pay 20/25B$/8€ while with more developed sites the price is half that. The same with the other meals like lunch or dinner. In Brazil more or less there is a standard rate of 80B$/20€ for a 2 people set meal.
Where to stay in Atins?
There is the very cheap Atins hostel on the main road. It is run by an Argentinian guy: 35 B$/10€ for a bed or 40B$/12€ for a room by a person without breakfast but with the kitchen facilities available. By the way, there is no concrete on the road starting from Jericoacoara northwards. There is sand instead which is very pleasant to walk on in the evening but during the day it's burning if you are barefoot. Sometimes if you don't find a shade you have to run like crazy to find some or go straight away to the sea.
About Atins:
People say that Atins is like Jericoacoara a few years ago. It has the potential to develop and grow bigger. However, I'm enjoying it the way it is now. Besides the limited access to the food, transport, accommodation, everything else is available. There is a mini market with a very limited range of items, there are fruits/vegs and a fish shop. There are a few Pousadas and restaurants and that's it. With our tent on the beach, we had the most priceless sea view one could wish for. We got bored after a couple of days of this idyllic lifestyle.
On the way to find a place to have some breakfast I met a local girl. Apparently, she has been in a local bar by the beach the night before, they visited briefly. When she saw us in the morning walking on the sand path in a heat of 35 cell degrees (9am) she commented: 'Last night the Jesus appeared to me and so did he this morning'. She referred obviously to my travelling soulmate A. She took us to her friend's Flamboyant pousada so we could have a good quality breakfast (15B$/4€).
We sat in a silence on the terrace surrounded by the palm trees while having a tasty breakfast and
some rest. I've asked Saphira what we could do for the next couple of days. We agreed that she would arrange for us to rent a 4x4 vehicle to drive us through the dunes to the only lagoon (Lagos do Caiçara) full at this time of the year (Feb). In fact, the proper season to see more lagoons is during the Summer June - Aug. She suggested while we are at the lagoon we could spend the night at Oasis in Baixa Grande (2h drive/7h walk). So we did.
Lagos do Caicara - the most beautiful dunes in Brazil and the only lagoon during the Winter season (Dec-Jan) - Atins - a perfect spot to take some yoga and dance pictures by iPhone 7.
The lagoon was stunning, it was worth it to take the 4x4 ride to get there (300B$/80€). It was the same price as a guided trekking tour. I didn't mind walking there but I was concerned about the sun so I preferred to drive. The water was warm, the contrast between the blue water and yellow dunes was very strong and impressive. Even my blond hair, after having a bath in the lagoon water, became golden. After a couple of hours spent by the lagoon, we headed to the oasis.
Except for the owner and a few animals, there was a couple of people: a French tourist and her Brazilian guide. When the owner was about to kill his duck to cook a dinner for us she panicked. She said that she was a Muslim and they are not allowed to eat any meat which wasn't killed with one shot. So she didn't eat any meat with us. As the matter of fact, there was no owner's wife in the oasis as she went to the town. Thanks to our Brazilian friend Saphira, we ended up having a very tasty meal she cooked for us. The meal was made of rice, pasta, beans, duck and a salad I made. Luckily I had some vegetables and fruit. It's very uncommon in Brazil to have a meal accompanied by the vegetables. It's similar to the rest of Central and Latin America.
Atkins
We opened our tent under the tree at the propriety facing the beautiful lagoon. The night was peaceful far away from the civilisation. The stars in the sky were far brighter than usual. It was an unforgettable experience. The rest of the people were sleeping under the roof in the hammocks (35B$/10€). The owner charged us for camping at his propriety 10B$/3€ each. The dinner cost was 35B$/10€, while the breakfast's (coffee and crackers with butter) 5B$/1.5€. The next day in the morning after my yoga practice we headed back to Atins. We stayed there one more night and the following day at 2pm we left by boat (40min/50B$/15€ each).
On the way back from Atins
We met an Italian guy who used to Live in Atins since 20 years, above his property
