Panama: Bocas de Torro: Colon island - playa Estrellays (starfish beach) Bastimento - Rred Frog beach, Boquete, Taboga island, Panama City

The same hustle on the Panama's border - way out ticket. This time we had got our return flight ticket back home. You don't need to show it anywhere else either in Europe or the USA and you have to show it in Costa Rica and Panama. Everyone makes the fake ticket so they don't need to waste money on any real ticket which wouldn't be used anyway. We've been trapped in C.R paying price of 40$ ticket out which we've never used and since then we learnt the lesson to make the fake ones as most of travellers do. 

Arrived on apparently the most stunning islands of Panama (bocas de torro) evening time. After having an 1,5 h bus trip from Cahuita to the panama's border Sixaola we took a taxi (1.5h 10$) to the water taxi station and took a boat (30min) to Colin's bocas island. It was raining all night long therefore we didn't have a choice and had to stay in the mondo Thailu hostel (13$ each). It's been a long time since a last time we slept in a bed. It was very hot, of course I couldn't manage to sleep after 2 previous sleepless nights. We were supposed to have some pancakes for breakfast on a house and we did but made by ourselves. Our pancakes breakfast turned out into a disaster. There were American pancakes and I didn't have a clue how to make them. We moved on by public transport (30min 2.50$) to playa estrellays ( starfish beach). We camped by the quite sea on the age of the rain forest, lighted the fire and went to sleep. After a rain in the night the next day was really nice and sunny. 15 min away by walk we ended up on the beautiful starfish beach. We were welcomed by a turquoise and transparent water flat like a lake and palm trees. After last night lunch we didn't have anything else to eat therefore I was starving after 2h swim. We had got for breakfast a fried fish with coconut rise, salad and plantains accompanied by a coconut water. It was a haven to have a full tommy again;) the beach gradually started becoming more and more crowded as it was Sunday however we were in the quietest spot just at the beginning of the beach. It was nice to swim in a calm turquoise Caribbean sea for the whole day. During the day we rested on the beach on hammocks and sunbathing beds and at the end the the day we found a shelter in our tent by the age of the rain forest 15 min walk back towards the bus stop. Next day as we run out of cash we couldn't stay there any longer and two days were already enough we picked up and took a bus to the Bocas town. I've realised that didn't have my passport and remembered that must have left it at  the hostel where we stayed two nights earlier. In fact I found it there at the reception desk. They shouldn't have asked for a passport in a first place. It's pointless, it's such a poor hostel (mondo tailu), who would take anything away from there...? Once I've cashed some money we had got a huge breakfast, made of fruit (the whole watermelon as usual we do), omelette, toasts, pancakes, latte, followed by ice cream after a couple of hours of me chatting with the American manager of the restaurant who gave me some specific indications where to go next another America guy who owns the old motorcycles shop who gave me some tips how to fake documents. Both incontestable were very pleasant and informative. Because of the unique way we travel we end up in the deserted placed immersed in the wild  world therefore our human relationships are very limited. Whenever I've got chance to chat to someone definitely I use it. Other travellers are keen on making contacts with others and share their experiences. We create one big community of support and we encourage each to discover hidden landscapes, culture and people during the long journey of our selves discoveries. The outcome of the encounter was to take a little boat 6$ each and in 20 min reach the other Bastimento island - Red Frog beach. We arrived by the lagoon, paid 5$ each entry to the national park. We crossed it (10min walk) and reached a wonderful red frog beach - a paradise for surfers as well as Eco life style lovers. We went to the left from the Palmar's lodge and set up our tent by the beach. It was worth to come over. The beach is not huge but just a right size for a little jogging, the swim is not great as it's hard to go through the breaking waves all the way to the mid sea.  It's a perfect place to light the fire in a full moon beautiful night with the sound of waves and surrounding nature. It's just another paradise. The food in the lodge is not too bad but quite expensive. During our 3 months trip we have never paid more then 5$ for breakfast and 10$ for a dinner, but here the breakfast is approx 8$ and a dinner 15$ not including any fancy meals such as lobster. We are talking here just about Cirillol meal with fish, vegs and rise. I guess this is the price of living in a national park far away from the town. You need to take a boat to get to the Bastimento's town. We prefer not to do it so our paradise experience can last forever. I really love this paradise over here. It's just a perfect place. I've got a meeting with the owner of the lodge to discuss the possibility of organising the yoga retreat here. In a meantime I'm lying down on the sunbathing bed and enjoying the sea's sound and view. The next destination in Panama before taking off is a valley - Boquete surrounded by astonishing mountains and Vulcano in the middle of the country, followed by the Taboga island by the Pacific side and the final destination is a canal of Panama in a Panama City where we are flying from   29th of February 2016. There were ups and downs during this trip around Central America due to tiredness, hit, insects: mosquitos, sand flies long hours of traveling from one to another destination. But the whole experience of staying in the most beautiful places in the world and free camping was the best ever totally unique and outstanding. I made the connections at Guatemalan's school of delivering dance programme within their time table as well as I found spots for yoga retreats while sailing across Atlantic on the sailing boat and going through the Canal of Panama next year. Have been reflecting a lot of what I would like do when in back to London. First: coucherding for 5 months and working like a crazy delivering yoga classes so I can complete construction work in my house in the Polish mountains over coming Summer: Aug/Sept. Organising sailing yoga retreat in June in Eolie- Sicilian Islands, September on Greek islands and yoga retreat on the land  in March/April in Panama (the best period is from Sept to Nov)- Bocas de Torro - Bastimento - Red Frog beach if not in the Caribbean (Antigua - Angelo). After I've spoken with Sebastiano - the owner of the lodge (Venesuelian/north American) he said that this is a dangerous place for free camping, in the past there were gun shots/machetes frightening robberies. He couldn't offer us any free tent as you need to book st least two weeks in advance in order to get the place. The 4 people tents are 90$ per night, there is no hot water facility. They've got 35 sleeping places on total on 2 acres of land, they would like to buy another 1 acer to expand it up to 3 acres + 4 more tents. They are looking for 100 000 $ investment (6% flat interest rate + profit share) to improve service by delivering a hot water facilities. They are not sure about type of collaboration they would like to develop as they don't want to compromise on their ideas and creativity. There are two business partner who are based mostly here in Bocas and visiting home in USA every other month. The best period of time to run retreats they recommend from Sept to Nov due to the best weather conditions (out of rainy season). The owner is very American therefore very precise and self confident, it's impressive what they've created over here only over two years. It's a paradise for chilled Americans but not for those who are searching for a luxury type of holiday. The conditions here are very basic, it should be a rather low budget place but still prices are quite high compering to other Central American places. We are on the mainland of Panama (Almirante) back on the road traveling to Boquete - the valley in the middle of the mountains (4,5h drive by the shuttle 20$ each). Once we arrived In Boquete we found a place to camp on the land of one of the proprieties by the river surrounded by the mountains. The family living there is very poor, their living conditions are much worse then outs in the tent. They don't have a proper house but they are helpful and kind. The owner proposed a guided tour around the rain forest for 30$ but we don't feel like doing it. We might give him some money for the hospitality but we will skip the tour. The breakfast or dinner here coats 3$ and we've been spending on the Bocas island so much that definitely we'll keep    living on a low budget now. Boquete is a starting point for a deeper exploration of the rainforest, waterfalls, hot springs and Vulcano. It remainds me of my place in the Polish mountains. It's impressive that the waterfalls belong to a private owner (7$ entry). How much would it cost to buy 3 waterfalls. In other countries they usually belong to the government but Panama is exceptional....Surroundings of Boquete were marvelouse, very much recommend who loves the nature and hiking. The combination of high mountains, rain forest, hot springs, springs and water falls was outstanding, very much worthy of experience. After usual 2 night, three days we said goodbye to our hosting family (very poor but very kind and honest), took a local bus to David (1h, 2,5$), followed by 8 hours drive to Panama City (express AC bus 16$) and finally we ended up just outside of PC by the coast at Amador - huge yachts marina with American restaurants. We found a spot to free camp by the bay with sailing boats ready to cross the Panama's Canal. The next day very early in the morning we packed up took a cab (4$) and went to pick up the ferry near by to Taboga island (8$ one way, 30min). We came one hours before the scheduled departure at 8am and we found plenty of people cuing. Likely there were two boats transporting the crowd. So we managed and spent a wonderful day on the island, swimming, eating seafood and serviche, drinking coconut water (pipa) and eating ananas (pina). Taboga is a little holidays island for Panama's city's habitants by the Pacific side. After 3 months of living in tropics and sunbathing on regular bases I've got a sun burn. Half of my face pilled off, and burned again. I'm in agony staying at the Stanford Panama hotel the last night before the trip back home on 29th Feb 2016. The area is very central on 5 may ave near by the coast. We always end up by the sea. It's di curiose that  I'm not living by the sea yet. We had some nice sea food dinner by the shore (24£ x2). The coast at night is impressive, it seems to be like in Los Angeles. Tomorrow the last day in Panama and the last day of our 3 months trip. It feels strange to leave it all behind. It was exhausting sometimes but reach and mind blowing experience all the time. It would be impossible to do a solo free coming. 2 people give each other corrage and it feel safer. The last night in the hotel with AC feels wired. I'm st the Panama's city international airport, didn't manage to get on board due to lost passport with American visa as my flight back ticket to London was via Georgia. Never mind, waiting for the other than Delta airlines such as KLM, Air France to open their customer service and try to get on their flights with change in Europe (Paris or Amsterdam). The USA sacks, even in transit one can not go through it without a visa. Mine American visa was appearing on the system but I didn't have a proof of it as my old passport with it was stolen. Therefore there was no way they would allow me on board. Otherwise It would cost them a 5000$ fine and me 580$. They didn't want to run a risk. Fair enough, let's hope that the other airlines will let me on board without over 1000$ flight ticket charges. My previous flight was at 9.20am (Panama-Atlanta), the next ones are in the evening time (7pm, 10pm). 

Costa Rica: playa Brasilitos (Pacific Ocean), Cahuita (Caribbean Sea)

We crossed the border from Nicaragua to Costa Rica in Penas Blancas. We had to demonstrate at immigration our ticket out therefore we had to buy 40$ ticket each to Panama which we would have never used. It's so strange that in third world country they ask you for a ticket out. Who would ever remain there? Maybe for a working purpose... We got on the bus and went to Playa Barsilitos recommended by one of Nicaraguans who was living in Costa Rica. As usual on a local buses it takes ages to travel from one to another destination. We changed the bus few times and eventually arrived not so far from the final destination and due to the luck of bus as it was getting late (9pm) we had to take a shared cab (10$each for a 2min ride). We met an interesting middle age Canadian who was living in C.R for the last 20 years. He arrived there with a multimillionaire business project which went bankrupt. So did he but instead of giving up he established himself in C.R on the Pacific side in the middle of a rain forest. He has got total privacy there and doesn't need to be worried that someone will see you naked. There is no access from anyone. He is living with his local woman and looks pretty happy. He said that he has never seen such a corrupted country as C.R but he loves the nature, climate and the people therefore couldn't find any ether place for him. Fair enough, when you look for a right place for you, it never comes, when you take what's given for you it seems to be right. He followed his destiny...I've been a bit confused during this trip as I constantly was looking for a right place for me and haven't found it. Why not? Because I was trying so far. In the past when I was living for a while in some place the opportunities would arise therefore this was the way forward.

Playa Brasilitos was exactly what was needed after such a usual long journey. It was a quite large and long  beach immersed in palm trees. We would walk 10 min to get to the nearest shop/restaurant, another 10min to the other beach which must have been very famous as it was packed by foreigners. We would stick to our almost lonely beach with our huge fires in the night. Since we've been rubbed in Nicaragua we keep the fire on at night time just for safety and against mosquitos. We camped in a bay therefore waves weren't huge. I enjoyed my swim. After a couple of days it was a time to move on and visit in Cahuita -south east by the Caribbean Sea our French friend Karine from London . She decided to move to C.R and run her holistic live style over there. She collaborates  with a local who owns huge property in a rain forest with a nice yoga studio which she uses for a feldenkrais practice with her new clients. Apparently it works much better and quicker over there than in London and the life style is higher. It's a perfect location for life and work. The only concern are mosquitos and sand flies which are plenty, the rain is on a regular bases therefore the humidity and hit are pretty high. In a tent it is quite challenging to manage to sleep well without bites and getting water inside. Once you are in a bungalow everything is much easier and comfi. The community out there is nice and polite, it's a nice place to stay. The first night we spent in a lovely luxury kenaki lodge. We arrived in the middle of the night and instead of sleeping in the jungle sharing a wild life we've been offered by the owner the privileged place to camp in his flower house. The next day we were treated like kings with a nice cup of coffee served at the well dressed table. Then we met with Karine and stayed the next 4 days in her Kington.  It would have been a paradise if we weren't bitten by sand flies. We went to the national park by playa blanca where was the only descent place to swim otherwise everywhere else is a surfing paradise with huge waves and strong currents. There were plenty of monkeys throwing on you seeds of mangoes they've been eating. I remember 20 years ago seeing the monkeys for the first time in C.R and for the second time now in the same place. The experience of C.R then was totally different, everything was so underdeveloped and unique. By now with all the roads and services is a different place. I guess this is the case of moving ahead. The climate on the Caribbean side is too hot, humid and wet. The Pacific side is drier and cooler because of the breeze of the wind coming from the ocean. We visited also Puerto Viejo from where I remembered only a rasta bar, and indeed there was s one but not the only one, it was followed by hundreds of other bars, restaurants and shops. It wasn't the same isolated place which was at the beginning of its development 20 years back. It was a developed town. Eventually we took a bus and moved in to the next destination still on the Caribbean side but in different country - Panama. 

Nicaragua - Leon - Granada- Laguna de Apoyo

After such a long trip from eastern side of Honduras down to western coast of Nicaragua likely we managed to get to Leon where we stayed over night in a nice hostel Guardabarranco, the same chain as the one in Ceiba but completely different and cleaner experience. Again Leon was just a transit place, nothing interesting there. There were few beaches half an hour by bus away from the town but we didn't visit them. The lake of Granada was also such a disappointment. The lake was big without any access to the water with plenty of garbage around, very touristic place totally owned by foreigners. I was tired and wanted some relaxing place to rest. Asked the locals about such an oasis to hide in and they indicated La Laguna de Apoyo. We took a cab (8$ x half an hour drive) and we ended up in the paradise. Very laid back place with the artificial lake in the crater of volcano with few local restaurants around.  It was a perfect spot for a tent and relax. We made friends with locals, during the night there were fishermen coming over to pick up the nets and what they fished, locals who were making bath. Later on few firing era made a huge fire near by our tent, the sky was full of stars, there was no moon so the stars were even more visible. The water was warm and fresh, the lake looked like a little wavy sea with an ocean sound. This is exactly what I was hopping to find, like being back to El Salvadore's experience with only few more tourists. In El Salvadore we didn't meet even one foreigner. It was such a paradise. So was Nicaragua.

I'm lying down in a hammock by a lake with an accompaniment of a wonderful sound of the waves breaking by the shore, catching up with my traveling diary;) It reminds  me of my home country- Poland where I used to live and go to such a remote places.

We had got such a bad experience last night. While we were lying by the tent watching the stars we've be rubbed: mobile phone, money and the bag with the gifts from all Central America were gone. We've only realised it next morning.  Someone must have got in to the tent while we were literally 3m away. The next day while we were having our breakfast in the restaurant near by we've been told by the owner that there are lots of thieves around here. It's such a negative feeling while traveling, being in the most beautiful places and having to worry that someone will invade our space. We should be leaving right away but somehow we don't feel like. Waiting for the police to report the robbery.