South America: Argentina/Bolivia/Brasil 12Dec-23Jan'13
Here I am, it took me 2 years to finally book a flight ticket and flew over to Buenos Aires (BA) - the capital of Tango. Before my trip i didn't know what I was going in to, where I was going to stay and which dance school I was going to join. I've signed up for https://www.couchsurfing.org/ and asked if there is anyone who could host me. And likely I've got few responses offering the Argentinian hospitality. If it was a first time I was going to travel from London to another continent, probably I would be worried where I am going to end up. As I'm pretty well traveled by now, going to strangers houses couldn't be a better option. My previous trips weren't that different beside the fact that I wasn't using the internet to live with randomly met people. I was just meeting people directly and sharing their space. Nowdays it takes a second to organise smoothly the trip. Before landing in Buenos Aires on the plane Madrid-Buenos Aires I've met a Portuguese boxer http://boxingbentoalgarvio.blogspot.co.uk/2006/05/bento-no-para.html who competes internationally and collects pretty remarkable results - few golden awards. He was heading to Paraguay to sign another boxing contract. He gave me an interesting idea of performing with my dance theatre company in casinos. Who knows may be this is not such a bad idea. Apparently in Portugal contemporary dancers are performing in casinos. I might give it a go. I definitely will, as soon as I get an internet access. This is a third day in Bueanos Aires and I've managed to stay in two different accommodations so far, one with a lawyer and another with historian. Both are a very interesting people, the lawyer - Manuel has just graduated from his second degree (in law, first in international business relationships) and is currently searching for a scope in his life, planning on going to Australia for 1 year. This is apparently what Argentinian government offers to its citizens, Argentinians can get a 1 year working visa in Australia. This is such a cool idea. The other - historian - Diego is just about going to a wonderful 1 and half month trip to Chille, Bolivia, Mexico, Peru, Panama, Cuba and USA. He teaches history at the secondary school in Buenos Aires and I was honoured to have him as a very knowledgeable tour guide who took me to the Centre of the City - Cathedral and shaw me the most important government places over there. His knowledge is remarkable and whatever he says makes the history looks much more interesting. He speaks few languages: Italian, French, English, Russian, Portuguese but as soon as I've mentioned that I would like to improve my Spanish, since the beginning we've been communicating in that language. i really appreciate it. My lawyer friend wants to improve his pretty good English so with all the respect we spoke English. Both places are located centrally so it's easy to move around BA. The lawyer's 3 bedroom house is cute, has got 2 levels connected by very high and narrow stairs and a roof terrace which I love. There is also a big plantation of herbs which strong smell couldn't indicate better their origins...;) The other place is full of incredible collection of historical books from different periods, countries and in different languages, it's a tinny one bedroom flat with the walls full of books/pictures/posters/paintings of revolutionary time, including all Argentinean dictators like Peron. The current presidency of Cristina Fernández de Kirchner could be also questioned...It's impressive and Im sure my host has definitely read them all. What I can say from my first impression about Buenos Aires, it is definitely a city with highly qualified intellectual class. The size of it is comparable to London with 10 million population including the suburbs. I've already advertised for the artistic collaboration between the tango and contemporary dancers. I see that it will be difficult to start any project before the Xmas break as most of people I've spoken with are leaving to visit their families. Im considering on going for 10 days to Uruguay to enjoy the sea. It's pretty hot over here: 40 degrees, but I couldn't complain, this is a perfect temperature for me. Today it is a little bit heavy as the rain is coming. The food is fantastic, I'm trying all kind of pastry home made products such as empanadas, tortillas, crema de papas, ecc, also sweets are delicious. It's a mix of Italian and spanish cuisine, nobody eats indoors. In fact the fridges of my hosts are empty. The food outdoors is fresh and cheap. I still have to figure out the currency exchange for pound in relation to pesos. it's around 8 pesos for 1 pound, 5$ for 1 peso in legal exchange and on the black market is 8$. I didn't know earlier that foreign currency is not allowed in Argentina any more. The value of their local currency dropped down impressively recently in the last year and the president prohibited the trade in $. It's pathetic that basicaly over last 12 years the country was managed by the dectators of a couple who pretend to safe their country by ruining it and getting towards another big economical crisis. 20 yeaars ago when 1$ was equal to 1peso Argentinias were traveling, buying houses. From one day to another they could only cash limited amount of money per month. After few years the peso lost it's strong value which made people loose almost everything. For instance, if they were lucky, from 50 000$ they were left only with 10 000$. Even this amount was hard to withdraw from a bank. If one has managed, after leaving a bank was exposed to a cruel rubbery (that's what I've been told by one of the Argentinian travellers who lives abroad).
It's 5th day since my arrival to BA and I'm still leaving in a second home with my historian couchsurf friend. It's really nice, Diego has introduced me to an Argentinian culture, just watched the classical argentinian movie 'La mirada invisible' Diego Lerman http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=du1QQsdw8vA about screwed up dictatorship's period in Argentina 30 years ago: Fascist system and total control of any kind of individuality. Very similar to Poland and Soviet Union during that time. I'm enjoying though the hospitality time in BA, I don't event want to go out, it's so nice to live locals live and hear their stories about it. Tonight I might explore a little bite the science of Tango. I've been once to a tango place, took a class and danced with my lawyer's host Manuel. This week I'm planning to tango every evening.
I'm at my historian host's place, having my own space and all tools to work on my project. It's been a pretty hectic time before coming to BA and sorting out the trip, accommodation and continuously pilling up outstanding things related to my dance/yoga work. Overall Buenos Aires seems to be more chilled than London. Everyday I made my way around areas recommended by locals. I love people over here, Im very much looked after and being honest I don't need anything more. I found the dance school DNI http://dni-tango.com/?lang=en
Just before I left London, i've been recommended to approach it by one of the dancers who was attending our company's class. I visited that school yesterday by joining tango class with the director Dana Frigoli http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KpJI7XWXoXI. The school is based on Tango Nuevo, The artistic director of tango dance company runs the company during the day 10-13 and in the afternoon till 9pm runs dance classes opened to everyone. It's located in Palermo (area of BA), not far away from where I am. By bicycle it takes me to get there a half an hour. It's not easy to cycle here as the roads are very bad with plenty of wholes, it feels like being in a washing machine, it reminds me a bit of my trip in India, especially in Himalaya were I've been getting constantly sick because of this shacking effect. Coming back to tango, it's definitely worth to risk getting sick on the bike and afterwards immerse in such a wonderful world of sensual and romantic tango. I love the music, environment, swinging people around the floor and swapping the partners. Each time is a new experience. The school I visited, I've approached from a partnership work prospective of exchanging the tango classes for yoga and contemporary classes which I could teach. The director of school would like to do such an exchange but of course she needs more time to plan it. Their company just finished 11 months of full time tango training and the tour. She is exhausted to plan anything new. She proposed to meet up at some point at the beginning of January 2013 and talk about next year collaboration. This is definitely something I could consider especially if I end up on the boat by crossing the Atlantic. I've just watched a wonderful movie 'Tango Class' Sally Porter recommended by my historian friend and I'm amazed by the quality of such a intelligently structured scenography. The film https://vimeo.com/7868971 is very simply and real, the main protagonist is also a director and there are just four actors, except from extras. The sensibility and sensitivity of Sally is so touching. The way she pictures tango is very unique, it's the simplest and most sensual dance on the earth.
Yesterday I've visited the most popular tango place la Viruta http://www.lavirutatango.com/clases_de_baile.html not far away from where I live. The entrance is 40 pesos (5£) and i can dance as much as I want till the morning with tango classes included. I don't take any tango classes and I dance exclusively with other tango partners. They are the best teachers. However I must admit that tango in London is much more advanced and developed, so far I haven't found a good tango partner to dance with. I'm in the heart of tango and I can not find the best tango dancers... Well, I might make some afford to track them. The Xmas time is coming just in 1 day and I haven't figured yet out where I am going to stay. I might just tango during Navidad. Today 2nd week from my arrival I'm going by the boat to explore the Rio de La Plata (Tigre) - the biggest Argentinean river. I don't think there will be any chance to jump in the water as I can imagine that it could be like Thames in London or Ganges in India.
I am getting used to Buenos Aires and I love the idea of tango music and dance all over the place. I'm living in Argentinean house on my own and I feel home. Though I might take somewhere else trip soon.
As soon as I looked up couchsurf I've found the Xmas party by the river at Tigre. More or less the same location comparing with the one I've just come back from the boat's trip. This time the owners- Argentinian/Duch couple invited couchsurfers to their hostel 24-26th dec to spend together Xmas. I've packed up again and left the city. It was such a challange to travel gratis as all the cash points were run out of the money and all the kiosks were run out of the coins. Eventually I've managed to get on the city bus where someone very kindly has offered me the pass, the train to Rio-Tigre was luckily free. I'm not surprise as the trains here run as they want without any particular time table. As soon as I've got to Tigre I've found a cash point and could do some shopping for Xmas. Got on the boat and arrived literally at the private pier of the final destination. The hosts and guests welcomed me from the pier. It was so hot, around 50 celldegreece, I've desperately jumped in to the green water of Rio. The water didn't look very inviting as it was hard to see anything underneath but it felt so refreshing, especially when you are in the oven/hell. Also the strong current worked like a hydromassage. Almost 20 people of different nationalities such as Columbians, Venezuelans, Germans, French, Polish (including myself), Dutch and Argentinians of course were attending the Xmas celebration. Everyone brought or prepared their special meals which we all could taste during the Xmas eve. It was one of the nices Xmas I have ever experienced, by the river, in 30 celdegreece of temperature (night) and with such a cosmopolitan environment. I've spent quite few Xmas's all around the world by the wonderful seas and naturalistically/geographically impressive places and all of them where as much amazing, but this one has been unique because it has happened in such an unexpected and surprising way. After the midnight shampaign celebration of the Chrise's bday I've jumped with my friend David in the river and we decided to cross it to join the columbian party on the opposite side. The current was pretty strong and I've almost lost my pans, the speed engine boats were coming in darkness towards us, likely we got to the edge of the river and surprised the celebrants on that side of the river. They looked scared and worried when they saw us appearing in the middle of the island from nowhere, we simply ignored it. While we were dancing, eventually men from the Columbian family started socialising with us by offering us drinks and joining in. We were dancing all together until the strong wind begun. We were concerned about the current of the river that can get stronger and we won't be able to cross the river back. We jumped back into the river and this time I was prepared to catch up my pens when they came out, we crossed the river with the fear of crashing against the engine boat. We luckily ended up on the pier of our a bit worried hosts and guests. Told them the story and went to sleep. I was in the room with a lovely Columbian couple who where studing in Buenos Aires. Spent in the b&b 2 nights in total and came back to BA.
Next day left for another regon near by Cordoba - San Luis -Merlo, where i've been hosted by my Argentinian's friend familiy. I explored the mountains, springs and waterfalls, tracked, swam, ate food prepared by my friend's generous aunt who treated me as her doughter. I didn't have to do much as she wanted me to be on holiday, probabely because she also wanted to avoid aditionaly mess i might make. The hospitality here is amazing, Argentinians really look after you and they welcome you with all the kindness and love.
I'm about to leave Merlo, visited earlier wonderful mountains and springs of San Luis and Cordoba, Caveza Inka (indian head), Pasos Malos, Rencon. I've spent a quality time and have been hosted by wonderful people: Rolando and his aount. Now heading to San Luis, then San Fernando and eventually to Salta. Leaving bad memories behind and keeping the good ones. I'm blessed to meet helpful and generous people on my way. I was literaly living on 'Luna y Mercures' street and now I'm off who knows where...
I've arrived in San Luis - a very peaceful and quite country place with lakes, springs and mountines. The mountines and springs are much smaller than in Merlo, but the nature and people are still the same. I'm in love with Argentinian population, people are so hospital with open heart. As soon as I left one hosting family I've entered another family's house with a traveler, who has seen almost the whole world in 12 years of his life. He started his trip when he was 20 years old and came back home to Argentina at the age of 32 years. He came back from climbing Mount Everest just because he broke his crouciant knee's ligament. Now he almost recovered and is ready to go to Australia and New Zeland. In the meantime he would like to cycle across south America. It's very tempting to go on this trip with him.... but first I need to finish my studies in dance degree in London (final perf at the end of March 2013). I wish I could stay in South America until March and then go to California in a Summer June - August and then Boston in September, October - Nepal - climb the Mont Everest and the end of November join Roby in crossing Atlantic and travelling around the world. If it wasn't for dance I wouldn't come back anymore to London. I know that I couldn't live without dance so have to compromise on my dance company and traveling. The couchsurf is the best online travel service that one could invent. People who are subscribed in most of the cases are travelers with a particular mind and spirit which I associate with. The others are locals/hosts who can not travel but at least want to benefit out of foreigners/travelers/guests who can share experiences with them. Yesterday with my new host Alberto we went to the spring. We bought some meat, bread and tomatoes, introduced ourselves to the family who was barbecuing by the river and asked if we could share the fire. Of course they agreed. Initially there were 4 people and eventually by the time the meat was cooked they multiplied and became 15 family members. I've been introduced to all of them. Apparently Polish tourists in Argentina and especially in that region are unusual to meet. In fact each time I was buying the long distances bus tickets, Poland has never appeared on the system. The second day of my stay I've been invited by my host Alberto to kind of spa (hot/thermal stream of water falling in to the big water container -bath - in a thermal room). It was very hot outside so was inside and hardly I could breath. It was an interesting experience for the body and mind. I've definitely detached from the outworld and relaxed even more, which was almost difficult as i was already completely relaxed....I'm not sure if such amount of high temperature outdoors and indoors is good for a human being.... The evening was even more exciting, i've been invited to Alberto's rasta friend house which was just brilliant. Such a small hand made house that everything there was just about right. It was like a boat or plane where everything must fit in. The kitchen was very practical with home made blade of wood of inregular border shapes. On one side of the wall deviding kitchen from a bedroom, was a tv screen which was reversible, either you could watch movie in the kitchen or in the bedroom. Next to the bedroom was a small bathroom with all facilities imaginable such as hydro-masage shower, bidet with a double celling to create a day light effect. On top of the bedroom - half high suspended - was a studio , accessible from the mobile staires. We made a fantastic pizza with local friends of Alberto and we were left with a very limited time to couch up my bus to Salta (North Argentina). It was a crazy drive by a very abstract contemporary car rebuilt from an old fiat 125 with automatic doors lock. There was no access at all to open or to shut down the door manually but only by the drivers magic button. It was a futuristic car which brought me magically on time to terminal de omnibus (bus station). Terminal looked like a Heathrow airport.Actualy Argentina is a pretty well developed country which was a quite surprise to me. I was expecting a little bit more exotic and undeveloped third world country. But I guess the world is changing and there are less places like this available. They say that Argentinians buses are very luxury and comfortable with cama service (bed). Actualy this wasn't my experience most of the time I traveled on normal very uncomfortable buses with semi cama service (regular seats) due to a high number of travelers. In Argentina the airlines are every expensive, to flight internally or within south America the cost of ticket is at list 1000$ which makes obvious to use other public transport considering there is a very limited rail way service. Another interesting thing about the country is the actual economy. Argentinians are not allowed to use any other than their own (pesos) currency. They hardly can travel outside of their country as peso is very wick. On the black currency Market with 7 pessos you can buy 1 dollar while at the bank is 4.9$ for 1 peso. I didn't know about it before coming to Argentina. If I did I would have exchanged the currency over here.
Back to Salta. I've done a couch surfing at Salta at Germano's place who lives in the centre. I've spent there a couple of nights and I even purchased the ticket to Catchi (in the mountines) but didn't use it at the end. I've met on the street Argentinian tourists: Javier and Xavier who were heading next day to Jujuy so I decided to leave with them instead. Im not sure if it was a good idea because at the end after the first destination we traveled together, we discontinued the further trip. I've visited with them Purmamarca http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=li&q=Purmamarca,+Jujuy+Province,+Argentina&biw=1024&bih=596&sei=FpgCUcerLuSY0QXNpYHABA - the most famouse 7 colours mountain and great salinas 4000 m over the sea level. I've suffered initially from a high attitude with hudge headache and luck of oxygen. I love that part of Argentina with fantastic colours and beautiful landscape with variety of cactus around. I stayed at the camping hostel for a night: 70 pesos /9£ with breakfast (desayuno) included. The guys had got a tend (carpa) and initial idea was going together to remote locations and sharing the tend with them but eventually there was no neccesity of doing it in first place because we were in the turistic location with well developed accommodation infrsuatructure and secondary we didn't continue further journey together anyway. I took the bus and moved on, as i was heading up north I met people traveling to Bolivia. As I didn't have any particular destination in my mind I followed others to the border of Bolovia which I crossed in group of 10 people girls and boys I met at the border (Quiaca). I've traveled with guys over the night to the most antique Latin American city Potosi http://www.lonelyplanet.com/bolivia/the-southwest/potosi
I experienced the memory flash back from my South East Asian and Indian trip. We were traveling by mini bus instead of 8 people in 12 and kept adding more further on the way. Basically the cars in Bolivia are elastic and can fit unlimited number of people. Instead of 3 hours trip it turned up 6 hours without possibility of moving at all. Eventually we've got to the destination and found the most obscure and ugly hostel by only 30 bolivians per night (3£). No windows, cold water, no showers and dirty sanitaries. After I woke up I made my way to a local market with variety of fruit, veggies and empanadas (dumplings with meat, ham and cheese or vegs). I invited 3 musceteros I was traveling with in Bolivia to desayuno (breakfast) and we had got a typical Bolivian breakfast based on home made bread with mantiqua (butter) and gem plus caffe con leech (coffee milk). We changed the hostel for a more central and much better quality one in the same price. I had got my own room next to the guys. We visited the silver mine characterised by a very cruel conditions of children slavery work. One of those kids was our guide who didn't seem to hide the fact of cheap children labor. It looks like he was proud of his precious job in that mine: 6 days per week, 12 hours a day carrying on 800kg containers of rock in and out of the rocks. There was no safety and security regulations what so ever, and even allowing turists in was risky. This is another inspiration for the next dance production! In the last production of 'rights(?)' vaguely we touched up on such a topic but not mainly. This is another exploration I would like to do around human trafficking and cheap labors abusive use. Apparently in this case, it appears to be such a good and very respectful job that every 10 year old boys ironically should do... They work in mine for 10 years and when they reach 20, they quit and go to school. The daily salary is 80bolivians (BOB)/7£ and monthly 2000BOB/180£, while the average one is 600BOB/55£. It's like back to Poland during the communist time in 80s.
In Salta (Jujuy in Argentina) since 4 days I've been suffering the high attitude with symptoms of head-ache and luck of oxygen. The trip wasn't easy especially in Bolivia squeezed like sardine in the car and with such a low temperature in the mountains. I wasn't prepare to travel and especially not in a cold. I left Buenos Aires just with a hand baggage - the tinny rock sack (muchilla) and ended up crossing half of South America. As I've mentioned earlier on the way to Bolivia on the bus from the Argentinian/Bolivian border Quiaca I met 3 Argentinian guys who were traveling to Peru through Bolivia, I joined them and we spent 3 days together in Potosi on the way to la Paz (the capital of Bolivia). After visiting such an impressive and sad maine we want to 'ojo de Inca' (Indian's eye) - where I swam for few hours in a crater of vulcan immersed in a hot water over 30 cell-degrees. While the weather kept constantly changing from the sun to the rain, wind, storm, I kept myself in a hot thermal water. Being in the epicentre of vulcan was somehow magic and calming. I felt very safe and relaxed. The vulcan was surrounded by the mountains (4000 meters above the sea level), when I couldn't stay any longer in the water, I climbed up to see the crater of vulcan from the top. It was a magic view and wonderful fulfilling experience.
The day after we were heading to La Paz (Bolivian capital). After 12 hours night trip on the bus we arrived in La Paz - the highest capital of America Latina. I continued my journey on my own to Coroico http://www.lonelyplanet.com/bolivia/cordillera-real-and-the-yungas/coroico
Impressive landscape and waterfalls. Locals working in the fields planting coka, cocao and coffee. Coka apparently is the best herb to get rid of hight attitude sickness. I've tried it but I didn't believe it could help. I equalised the attitude derferences with yoga inverted positions. At the beganinn i was short of breath during the sun salutation but eventually i've managed to do a headstand and this helped me to overcome the constant headache and suffocation due to the luck of oxygen. As soon as I arrived at this picturesque countryside sourrinded by high mounties over 4000m high, I've fund a really nice hostel at the end of the village, located at the back of a luxury Don Juan hotel with a swimming pool and I stayed there for one night (45BOB/4£). I've waked for 20 km back and forth to 3 waterfalls. I've jumped in a freezing water of the biggest waterfall in that area and swam underneath. It was such a refreshing and pleasant experience. Then I continued climbing up the mountain and getting to the hidden rural area of Coroico far away from the tourists. I met a 25 years old mother with a child who told me about her daily life over there. She is maried and look after her child. She cooks and cleans. She has never been outside of her village. She seems to be happy. The sunset was about to come and I needed to walk back another 10km. I met a 55 year old woman who was carrying on her back in a typical Bolivian dress the colourful bag full of lifts of coka. I took it from her and carried it on to her home. She was a mother of 2 adult children, one of them lives in Argentina (BA). She travels back and forward from Bolivia to Argentina. Apparently due to such a bad economical situation in Bolivia a lot of people emigrated to Argentina. Im not surprise, even if Argentina is still cheap for West Europeans, it's still much more expensive for South Americans. The food on the streets of Bolivia was very delicious. I enjoyed in particular the breakfast: Api (corn purple fruit drink) with fried Puniuelo (no cheese pastry) and my favourite was a Pastel (with cheese pastry). They cook it very quickly on the street on the gas fire. It's warm and sweet. The Pastel is a bit salty, which combines perfectly with a sweet hot drink of Api. In Coroico I choose to be on my own. I enjoyed the beauty of a landscape, kindness and open heart of locals. i caught the bus and in 2 hours got back to La Paz. On the way to the capital of Bolivia I met a couple - Swedish guy and Columbian woman. They both met in Bolivia, he was continuing his life trip around the world to Peru, she was going back to Panama where she lives and works in truism. Her intention was to sell her car and join him. When he's got bored of his routine in Sweden he sold his house and car, packed his rock-sack and decided to turn around the world. He said it was the best decision of his life. He's been traveling since 5 months so far. This is definitely an inspiration for people who are curious of the world but don't have a courage to get it known. The life of a traveler/backpacker is not easy and very challenging. But who said that life is easy and the pleasure comes without difficulties. All the best in our life comes from a hard work and when less expected.
From la Paz I had got one more hour before catching the bus to La Quiaca (Bolivian/Argentina) border. I've got used to long trips so I could easily sleep during the night on the uncomfortable little bus chair and visit the places during the day. When I reached the border with Argentina - Villazon I walked through the park which was animated by foreigners and local folk dancers who were performing during the Bolivian Carnival. I've been offer a hot chocolate with pastels and danced with locals in the croud. As usual my phone was dead and I asked a photo shop owner to charge it for me. He told me that the lunch starts at 1pm. I had got 1 hour before the shop closes. In the meantime I decided to do some shopping and buy memory card for my gopro camera, which was actually broken and typical Bolivian clothes: colourful stripy trousers and cashmere sweeter. After I've got back to pick up my charged iphone, the shop was closed and I couldn't proceed to cross the border and get my other bus connection to Jujuy and then to the most wonderful waterfalls on the world located on the border between Argentina and Brasil - Iguazu. Well I didn't panic because the experience of traveling in underdeveloped countries tought me that every thing is unexpected and i need to chill out and live a moment. So I did. I've joined the Argentinian musicians playing tango by the square and as soon as they finished I've noticed the shop next to the photographer was opened. I went there and realised that it was linked to the other photo shop. I saw my iphone and wanted to grab it and run to the border. The lady sited behind the desc told me to wait as she needs to find out form the photographer if Im allowed to take back my iphone. Eventually I've got it and went straight forward to the over side of the border - La Quiaca. This Argentinian side seemed to be death, empty streets, shops, half restaurants were closed. When I got to the bus station I found out that my bus to Jujuy was gone and I needed to wait for another one to Tucuman for 5 more hours. i had to pay the additional ticket's fee to travel further south along Argentina, then to go up to north east border of Argentina to visit one of the world's wonders - the Iguazu waterfalls. La Quiaca was miserable and with the rain became even more depressing. I found somewhere to have a hot shower and eat dinner. This was the first time during my trip I went to the proper restaurant. I tent to eat on the streets and with locals. If I go to the restaurant it is usually a local place where are no tourists. After a soup and a meat (milanese - fried beef with bread crumbles) for the first time durring the whole trip I had a stomach-ache. Somehow I've managed it easily as I guess I developed anti bodies which protect my immune system. After the whole night of a bus trip I've waken up in Tucuman, where I had to wait 3 more hours before the next bus connection to Iguazu. In such a big shopping complex I went to the bar by the bus station, where by the table I left my little rock-sack and went to the restroom. On the way back an older couple by the other table stopped me, mentioning that I shouldn't leave unattended stuff in Argentina as it's dangerous. They invited me to their table, then their doughtier with a granddaughter joined and while having 2 medialunas (croissants) and cappuccino breakfast (15 Argentinian pesos ARS/1.9£) offered by them, we were exchanging information about the political and economical situation of South America and Europe. For the last year Argentina has been limited with an export and traveling abroad, because the external currency has been forbidden in the country to avoid the economical crises. I'm actually wondering how long such a corrupted dictatorial system is going to survive, I hope the crises from 20 years back won't happen again. This family is a middle class family of doctors with a pretty high life style but they can not afford even going to Brazil where prices are double. It's really sad to see like highly educated people are so limited in their life because of the narrow minded government management. Who knows when they are going to get rid of the dictator. Eventualy I've got on the bus and after 18 hours of trip I woke up in Iguacu. I found a nice hostel 'Peter Pan' (90ARS/11£ near by the bus station with a tinny swimming pool where I could recharge the battery. I met friendly Israeli guys who just finished army and went on traveling. After one resting day and resourcing my camera's equipment I visited the most beautiful waterfalls in the world. Iguacu is one of the world's largest waterfalls (one of 7 wonders of the world's nature) http://www.google.com/search?q=iguazu&hl=en&safe=active&client=safari&tbo=d&rls=en&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=H6UFUbjFKeOH0AWZsIHQAw&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAA&biw=1024&bih=596
it was definitely worth to get there after 48 hours of trip from Bolivia, through northern Argentina - Tucuman and finally reaching Iguazu by three borders of Argentina, Paragway and Brazil. I've visited the Argentinian side which is the most exposed to the waterfalls, i went on a speedy boat directly under the waterfalls. It was such an amazing experience, the energy and stream of the water were significantly powerful. It was the most beautiful view I have ever experienced in my life. I definitely can recommend it to everyone: the colours of the rainbow created out of the falling water steam, the sound of the water constantly crushing against the river's current and the sound of the singing birds immersed in the nature, the wild animals in the middle of the jungle of Iguazu Park, which are only available to the guides who live in the park. All this nature fulfils one's soul and heart, makes one happy and speechless. On the way to southern Brasil from this magic place i was lucky to seat next to the person who was born in the middle of this park and lived there for 18 years of his life. He was a son of the park's guide and he learned everything about the wild life over there. Tourists are not aware of fact that there are wild animals like tigers, pumas, ecc. They wouldn't probably attack any visitors as the park is safe and well looked after. I don't mind meeting the wild animals but I would have to be there in the night. One day I'll be back there and go on tour with Jose - a tour guide who knows everything about this place. The next day I woke up squised in the tinny bus's chair on Florianopolis island of Brazil. On the bus I also met 2 Israeli guys who were heading in the same direction. We traveled together. As soon as we've got to Barra da Lagoa, http://www.google.com/search?q=iguazu&hl=en&safe=active&client=safari&tbo=d&rls=en&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=H6UFUbjFKeOH0AWZsIHQAw&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAA&biw=1024&bih=596#hl=en&safe=active&client=safari&tbo=d&rls=en&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=Barra+da+Lagoa&oq=Barra+da+Lagoa&gs_l=img.3..0l5j0i5l3j0i24l2.943989.943989.0.944885.1.1.0.0.0.0.119.119.0j1.1.0...0.0...1c.1.z9g-5omE_dY&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.&bvm=bv.41524429,d.d2k&fp=a0695d2003ee9454&biw=1024&bih=596
we were surrounded by Argentinian and Israeli tourists. As a matter of fact we couldn't find any accommodation. Finally we've been recommended by a local guy s new hotel where we found eventually the place. This was the most luxury place I have stayed during my 6 weeks trip. Everything was new, of good standard with a clean swimming pool and the rooms cleaning service. It was 70 BRL reales (22£) per night per person, with AC and hot water. It was a treat for myself after such a long and exhausting journey across half of south America. Finally I was able to run on the large beaches by sunrise and sunset, listen to the ocean, practice yoga and swim miles away in the middle of a long waves, which have got a therapeutic effect on the skin, body and mind. I felt like I was in spa, it was a definitely the best end of my southern american trip. I've guided my two companions of trip across the mountains to the other beaches: Praia Mole and Joauqina. It was a marvellous very picturesque tracking in the middle of the rainforest with iguanas, on the top of the hill with a wonderful see view on 3 different beaches and a laguna. As soon as we've got to the beach Praia Mole I went for a long 1 hour swim. After my return, guys wanted to change the beach as they've been exposed to pretty big attention of other guys, it was apparently a nudist beach with different sexual orientations. We went to the next Joauquina beach which was crowded and occupied by vendors of each kind of food and bikinis. Obviously my preference was the previous beach. After this excursion I went to the local restaurant run by the Brazilian fisherman family, a little bit detached from the Barra da Lagoa crowd and had a dinner made of previously bought calamaris form one of the family's members. The night before when I discovered this place I met the owner of the restaurant 'Maria&Maria' who served me a fantastic dinner made of shrimps cocked in sauce made of cream, mustard and onion accompanied by rise, salad and french fries for only 35 BRL (10£). I've met there a musician who danced and choreographed for 26 years for Polish folk dance group in Brasil. Apparently there is such a big community of Poles who emigrated there after the war. He was familiar with all Polish folk dance groups, spoke some Polish, currently played and sang the Polish folk repertoire. That night I debuted as a singer with a Polish folk song ' Szla Dzieweczka do laseczka...', I had got a remarkable audience and baud. I danced and he even asked me to perform with them on the main square of the town the next day. During that evening one of the restaurant's family member - the fisherman sold me the 1/2kg of calamaris for 6BRL (2£). I've asked the waiter (owner of the restaurant) to cook it next day for me and his family so we can have dinner together. He and his family agreed to do so. That's how I ended up eating delicious calamaris on the next day. I've tried also the shrimps emapnada (fried dumpling) which was delicious.
The next day I left this marvellous place and arrived in Buenos Aires after 28 hour of bus trip. During this trip I was sited next to the Argentinian guy who has lived in Spain for last 8 years and before for the same amount of time he spent his life in Florianopolis in Brazil. He was about to realise that working and living the materialistic life is not exactly what he wants to do in his life. He packed his bag and left. He's been traveling since then without knowing his destination.
While I travel I realise that my place is in the universe, I can not stay in one place and I love in particular discovering undeveloped places, I love the nature and people literately living of nothing. When I am in the mountines or by the sea with the ray of sunshine I feel that this is my diminution, the place where I want to be. When I get back to London I question myself, what am I here for. Is it the place i want to live in, or it's just the transition from one to another life style. I realise eventually that's just the transitions. It's difficult to get out of here and forget about the opportunities London can give. But life is so short to be able to wait too long for changes to occur. Im here because of dance and education, Im here because of freedom to pack my bag and go whenever and wherever I want. I need to find the gold elixir to manage both my dance and traveling, civilisation and third world. If there is anyone who can help me to choose please get in touch. I hope you enjoyed this journey with me and could experience at least in some degree what I've been living for last 6 weeks. I appreciate your time and attention;) You are welcome to leave any comment you wish.
