Isla de Holbox, Isla Mujeres
In Tolum is a beautiful beach with a Maya's archeological site. I was so tired of visiting the other archeological sites that I decided by then not to visit this one anymore. As soon as we got off the ADO bus station on the way from Palenque we've been asked by taxi drivers 80MXN (5$) for a 4 km drive. Sometimes they make absurd prices for foreigners. Luckily while I asked for information how to get to the beach one of the locals offered us a ride as he was going there anyway. It turned out that he was from Mexico City. He completed his phd in archeology in Spain, then he decided to move back to Mexico. He moved to Tolum where he is completing his diving course in order to take tourists to the caves under the water in cenotes - natural lakes created from a river above the sea. His cousin who came to the beach with us was studying a contemporary dance in Mexico City. That was such a causality to meet those two opened minded Mexicans in a little sea town of Tolum. Initially we went to the camping by the sea immersed in a middle of the bush, we didn't like the way we've been treated by the forefingers who run that place therefore we moved on. We thought about free camping but we found a little camping with only two tents by the sea as we usually settle in anyway and only 3$ per person therefore we took it. It was near by the Maya's ruins but still the site wasn't accessible from the sea. The trees were very convenient to hang the fabric on to and practice my aerial dance. Unfortunately I fell sick after eating some not so fresh food or rather drinking liquids containing the contaminated ice. I've been told by tourists that lots of them have stomach problems. In Cuba we were drinking a tap water on constant bases so I though it could be OK to do so over here. Apparently I was wrong. The first night and the following day I was dying in spams lying on the beach and sleeping. I was so tired and in pain that couldn't move. The next day I felt much better so I started eating and everything came back to normal. Started taking over my regular routine of my life by the beach, morning swim, run and yoga practice. I climbed up on the silks, we took few pictures which actually were not too bad. The light was good in the morning. The only inconvenience over there was that the little town was 4 km away from us and the camping restaurant was so expensive, like 5 x more than the local ones. It was a pain to walk to the town each time for a food. Beside the fact that the beach was amazing we couldn't access easily the food so we kept on moving. We avoided crowded beaches in Playa de Carmen which we visited only for a half day, as well as Cancun. After we met a nice Argentinian/Columbian couple they recommended us to go to Puerto Morelos which was 70km away and had got a little town with locals next to the beach. So we did, we went to Puerto Morelos where we free camped by the sea. It was a chilled touristic area but not only with foreigners but also with local tourism. The prices were accessible and the food was traditional Mexican. We found this local Taquerîa where we had full breakfast by 3$ each. They make the Mexican breakfast with scrabble eggs, ham, cheese and frijoles (beans), it's pretty spicy but tasty. All is served with tacos instead of bread. This is the best culinar speciality of Mexico however you need to be careful of not overeating it as you can get easily fat. They don't have vegs on their manu, they serve vegs, fruit and fresh juices for tourists. As I was unsatisfied that I didn't get chance to see the Tulum's ruins because in first place I didn't want to, after meeting unexpectedly the guy from Tolum - Alberto he invited us to cenotes. He was on a diving course there. He drove us there in direction of Tolum. We escaped from the mosquitos and cenotes (underwater caves) and took collectivo ( a local bus) and went to Tolum where we've stayed before for few days and finally visited the ruins. Those are the only Maya's ruins by the sea. Very beautiful view, very hot so it was nice to jump into the sea to refresh. After a weekly stay in Puerto Morelos which was pretty authentic and nice we took a ferry and went to Holbox Island. That would be a great choice if we weren't eaten by mosquitos and sand flies on daily bases. When you live by the sea in a tent it's not easy survive with the insects. This island was almost virgin with a few tourists and Cabañas (bungalows). It was still untouched little island where there were no asfalded roads and no cars, only the golf cars and motors. The main transport was by foot or bike. It was nice to walk bare feet. We found a nice local economic restaurant with a very good quality food. We attempted it twice a day for the combined breakfast (5$) and a fish and sea food including lobster dinner (10$ each). It was more or less like in Cuba. For breakfast the fresh juice or coffee, fruit salad, eggs would be served. They make chaquiles, which is a special Mexican dish with eggs or chicken with a bit spicy sauce served on base of nachos (fried tacos). If it was made properly it was very tasty. In that restaurant run by Rosy was really good. The ham and cheese pancakes as well as the vegs omelettes were also great. The Xmas lobster and mariscos (seafood) soup was amazing. The only mistake was a Yucatan style fish which I guess wasn't fresh. After that I fell ill. I've got used to that terrible stomachache and cramps, nausea and tiredness so I could handle it better. Usually the first 24 hours are the worse and after that you still have diarea but you can function at least. All my daily routine of running by the beach swimming and yoga were disturbed again. The Fact of feeling unwell with the stomach, after a constant mosquitos and sand flies tourture even if the place was a paradise, we were exhausted, in pain and ready to go. The next destination was Isla Mujeres (island of women) even smaller island than Holbox but more populated and with lots of constructions. Plenty of tourists with asfalded roads. We've managed to find a nice hostel after our Jewish Polish American friend's advice (David met in Holbox). The Poc-na hostel is a 40 years hostel situated by the beach. There is a rocky side of the island which is chilled and away from American tourists. This is the place where we are camping. They do the free activities for guests. One of which is yoga. After I attended one session it turned out that the Italian teacher Nadia couldn't deliver classes for the next 6 days until the new year 2016. She asked if someone was a yoga teacher and could take it over. It was just a perfect timing. At least I don't have to pay for my stay and the food prices are discounted for me as a staff member of poc-na.
The last night of staying in that hostel I met an interesting person Simon. Him and his other couple of friends were sailing on their 37" Jenault from Guatemala to Cuba. As their encountered the difficulties to sail against the current, they anchored by Mexico. They spent on Isla Mujeres the New Year's Eve and they are ready to sail to Cuba 4th of January. As they are running out of money they advertised for somebody to join for only 150$ one way trip. They are making a documentary movie about the sustainable living on the boat. They are from Holand. Whoever is reading this blog and would like to supper them please check out their website: www.frisse-wind.org
It's in Duch but you can translate it on Google translator. It's such a great idea to travel around the world on a sailing boat and trying to self sustain the boat and yourself. Good luck guys and have a great wind!!!
