Trip to South America - Covid 19 lockdown 1 Nov-29 Jan 2020 and over ....
After the first lockdown in london from the end of March to The end of June 2020 during which I stayed in London. I have promised to myself that I wouldn’t waste my time anymore on just being in one place. As the work was gone for all the artists and wellbeing professionals I have decided that I was going to travel around the world. For the last 15 years of living in London I’ve been traveling 6 months a year: 3 months in the Summer in Europe and 3 months in the Winter in Tropics with the exception of last 3 years when I was only traveling two months a year: 1 in the summer and 1 in the winter.
The Last three months since the end of the first lockdown in London July-September I’ve spent in Poland (1 month in the mountains in my little retreat centre - perfect place to hide away from Covid), in Greece (1 month), in North Coast of Scotland (2 weeks) and Amalfi Coast in South Italy (2 weeks).
I’ve been working like crazy for the last three years without any intervals except from 2 month of traveling and few weeks retreats. I couldn’t stop getting more and more work (classes and arts/dance projects), I was trapped in my busy art, dance, mind body and Fitenss world. I couldn’t find the way out. I knew that some major change was going to come. After the Brexit I was expecting some much bigger change to come and it didn’t take that long when Covid 19 came and destroyed our settled lives.
As soon as I lost my job I realised that there is a positive side to it. I could travel again. Because of my passion for performing arts and movement I had to compromise between staying in London, studying all the mind body practices such as pilates, yoga, mediation, creating yoga dance, aerial yoga and dance choreographies, organising performing arts events and finally my baby “Social Arts Festival”. I was working as a lunatic without seeing the end of it. Every work was leading to the next work and all over again. I could not stop.
Covid 19 has been a tragedy for many people who died but in a way served its purpose.
The nature could be regenerated because of the decreasing pollution as most of people has to work from homes without using any transport.
Many people who were already suffering from different conditions were gone are not exposed to suffer anymore.
Many newborn babies came to this world because of the lockdown. Many families could spend more time together and reproduce.
Many families broke up because of the tension and limited spaces.
The nature and the world made their justice.
I found myself jobless, homeless but happy to have my unlimited freedom back and be able to fly away as soon as the borders were opened again.
After the first lockdown I didn’t want to be stuck in London for another 3 months. Yet the time I was locked down was the greatest time while living in London. I was living in a big house with a huge garden in a suburb of London (Beckenham), I was running, jumping on the trampoline, training aerial, developing my online movement academy, online aerial/yoga/dance courses and teacher trainings, meeting many friends while cycling or running around the big garden of park’s size. Being able to lead again a normal life style as I used to a long time ago, felt good. I didn’t feel guilty because I didn’t need to quit a job in order to travel. The job left me. I was set up free to fly again like years ago when I graduated from the uni.
And here I am on the first leg of my flight to Brasil. I’ve got 5 connections before I arrive at Amazonia - Manaus. It could have been easier to fly by Air-France directly to Manaus or Recife. The reason I haven’t done it is because of the increased cases of the corona virus in Europe. We are just about to go in to a second lockdown. I’ve managed to anticipate my trip just few days before the lockdown in London. I’ve booked the flights via Brazilian airlines LATAM €450 London-Brasilia-Recife and additional flights Recife-Sao Paolo-Manaus (€100).
The reason why I haven’t booked directly to Manaus is that initially I was supposed to meet my friend in Recife and together travel to Manaus. Eventually I’ve decided to flight directly to Manaus from Sao Paolo during my first flight from london to Sao Paolo. Likely I’ve got informed by LATAM that I would loose the return ticket to London if I discontinued my other flights. So I’ve learned my lesson for the future not to change any connected flights unless it’s the last connection on the way back. This is a very valuable information which can save a lot of money and stress. Usually I’ve got right all the flights and very good deals. This time I still have done well but I could have saved the amount of time and connections. Maybe it would have been more expensive but less hours of traveling. Though I have plenty of time and I don’t mind traveling to a different airports. I love watching diversity of people from all over the world. At the end it worked out pretty well.
The whole trip to State of Amazonia (Manaus) took 3 days 1-3 Nov 2020.
I’ve only booked the Airbnb at Manaus for 3 days x3 pp (€40) to rest and get ready for the river trip. Initially we were supposed to go from Manaus to Belem (north east of Brazil) but eventually we decided to go the other way - towards Colombia.
Last year I’ve traveled with my American friend and her little dog to French Guiana and Brazil. This would be the destination to take from Belem up. So I would rather skip French Guiana this time and go directly to Venezuela, then Colombia, Equador, Peru, Bolivia, Chille and maybe Patagonia.
3 years ago I finished my south east brazilian trip in Manaus. The last leg of my trip was from Belem to Manaus. Three years later - now - it was the right time to continue this Amazonian adventure. I was back on track and ready to explore the rest of South American countries I haven’t got chance to visit earlier.
Returning to my current trip, one more flight I have booked on this journey is from Santiago the Chille to Recife on the 27th of Jan 2021 (€120). Then I’ve got the return ticket to London with connected flights Recife-Brasilia-Sao Paolo-London 28th Jan 2021.
So many flights just to reach the Amazon river and avoid the Covid 19 - 14 days self isolation.
At the end I don’t mind all the flights changes and length of traveling. The most important is that I can freely travel and escape the European lockdown. Likely by the end of January the situation in Europe will get better and I’ll be able to come back. If I don’t manage to fly back, I’ll continue the journey around the world until I can.
Finally landed in Recife. I had another 14 hours of waiting for the next connection back to Sao Paolo and Manaus.
The Boa Biahen beach was calling us, 10 min by taxi (10 R$. 1.5€). At the airports in Brazil the WiFi is not really working, I couldn’t get my 4G either so it was a challenge to order the Uber which is super cheap in Brazil. At the airport in Recife you need to climb up the stairs after you arrive at B3 gate to get out to catch the Uber. It’s not difficult once you have an internet connection. The regular taxi drivers double the price in comparison with Uber.
When reached the beach, it was crowded but still welcoming after 24 hours of connected intercontinental flights from London to Recife.
It was a high tight therefore the sea reached the rocks by the shore. I wasn’t particularly impressed by the Atlantic Ocean on arrival while in transit, looked like it was after the storm. The water was muddy. The signs of sharks danger where everywhere. For the first time as I jumped into the water I didn’t swim, but only splashed the water. The current was super strong and in 5 minutes pushed me away remarkable from my previous spot.
I went for a run while my traveling body who joined me on this trip was looking after the rock sacks and socialising with locals.
I went for a long walk and run along the beach which became larger as I moved ahead. I forgot how crowded beaches in Brazil are and how many habitats are in each location.
When I came back after 2 hours of walk/run we had some coconut water with coconut fruit and some snacks bought on the beach such as: grilled cheese queso (my favourite treat), chicken/beef/hearts/sausages screwers, cheese bakery, shrimps balls, some shrimps, caldera (seafood and beans soup) and finally açai with banana. All these flavours I had on my mind since I have returned to Brazil.
It was so nice to have 12 hours of transit time to kill on the warm beach of Recife. As the sun was setting down, the sunset colours where becoming stronger, the sea was moving away because of the low tight and the people were leaving. The beach as I was falling a sleep was becoming prettier and prettier, when I wake up around 10pm the full moon was just above my head. I took it as a gesture of welcome.
I was so pleased to be in the tropical climate by the ocean instead of doing my second lockdown in London. I practiced some yoga by a full moon and by the Atlantic Ocean in north east of Brazil - Recife while waiting for my connected flight to Sao Paolo again, to get the final flight to Manaus. As I’ve mentioned earlier once you buy the connected return ticket flight you can not get out of the airport whenever you want and get another ticket. This would cause me loosing my return ticket to London from Recife which would be an expensive error. In this way I fixed the problem by flying back and forth to Sao Paolo to avoid the return ticket cancellation, high airplane fees to change the intercontinental ticket. Finally I’ve changed an internal ticket from Sao Paolo - Manaus to Recife - Sao Paolo - Manaus. I’ve done it separately and paid only €40 of difference. So the mistake at the end wasn’t that expensive.
Now I’m on the last leg of my journey to Manaus, flying on the 3rd of November from Sao Paolo to Manaus (3h flight). After this flight I’m going only to wait for my Brazilian friend to join us and go to the hostel/Airbnb in Manaus centre booked one day in advance just to have some rest and get ready for the Trip around South America along the Amazon river.
I’ve been catching up with the sleep since the last night and now I feel a little bit more recharged. Traveling in Brasil is super easy, because the land is of the size of the south American continent almost. It makes sense to have so may airports and connections so people can easily and cheaply move around. It’s quite impressive how many airports are in Brasil and how many people travel considering the Covid -19 restrictions.
In Manaus I’ve encountered my friend Rosangela who I met 20 years ago in Italy. I saw her last time 3 years ago during my trip in Brasil along North East Coast.
Rosangela during the first lockdown in Brasil worked on her farm in mainland. She coped with the heat and loss of many sheep and bulls. She’s managed to rebuild all her farm to sell it eventually. She found the buyer and said goodbye to her countryside lifestyle. She loved animals so much that she couldn’t betray them and sell them for a meat. She assisted with a birth of many sheep which she called with a name after she cut off their belly coard. She became more and more attached to her animals which were meant to die. She couldn’t do it anymore, as soon as she found a descent buyer who she trusted could look after the animals, she decided to pass her farm on to him. She sold the farm of the size of a village over 300 ha with the river, bushes, mountains, two big houses, stables and 300 animals for over 200 000€. She was ready to start a new chapter in her life. Because of Covid she rented out her B&B in Porto de Gallinas ( near by Recife) and she joined me to travel around South America.
Initially she wanted to invest in a wellbeing industry in Portugal in Lisbon but the corona virus came and destroyed her plans.
In the meantime she continues living her life by having some time for herself and taking what life brings her.
Three of us: Antonio, Rosangela and I were ready for our adventure. We spent a couple of nights in Manaus (local hostel recommended). I visited one more time Ponta Negra - a well known beach on Amazon River in Manaus which was closed due to the pandemics. I’ve managed to swim in this warm brown water before the police came over and gently told us to leave.
In a nearest outdoor bar we had the açai-my favourite Amazonian fruit which I love in frozen version with bananas, strawberries and chocolate. It’s very empowering, super healthy version of desert. Açai is the most famous fruit of Amazonias state of Brazil distributed all over the world. I was even considering making the açai plantation in Amazonia and selling it worldwide. This was my thought 3 years ago and it continues to be the one now.
We visited the Amazonias theatre in the town and were ready to go.
On the third day of our stay in Manaus we woke up early in the morning 6am and went to the harbour to find the boat to Tabatinga - Brazilian-Colombian boarder. We found Profeta Daniel II boat where we put our hummocks on and we were ready to sail at noon of the 5th of November. It was my fifth day of trip counting from the departure in London on the 1st of November 2020.
There was over 30 cel degrees of heat in Manaus without any breeze of wind. The poorest town of Brazil - Manaus was very polluted and crowded with the highest ever Covid 19 cases in Brazil and in the world. Yet the local vendors and ambient was unique and inviting to be a part of it at least for three days.
On Thursday the 5th of November we bought our tickets for Tabatinga at the Port of Manaus
R$385 (€50) each for 8 days sailing, including three meals a day. Before our departure we did our last shopping: hammock, mosquitoes net for Rosy and for both of us some sunbathing suits and New Years dresses. It is very hard not to buy anything in Manaus- the kingdom of cheapest and most fashionable copies of branded clothes. I had already my time in Manaus 3 years ago when I bought one extra huge bag of clothes which will last me for the rest of my life.
This time I took it easy but the trip has only began...
Eventually we boarded on Profet Daniel II, occupied our space for hummocks near by bathrooms - the only place to avoid. It was the only spot left on the top deck where we didn’t have anyone in front.
As we were supposed to sail from 12pm we had to skip lunch and wait until 5/6pm to have a dinner. It was quite impressive to see 800 passengers cueing outside the dining area. It took at least one hour to cue before we sat down in the restaurant.
We had to organise ourselves for the coming 8 days. Initially we thought we were singing up for only 6.
For the first dinner after cuing for 1 and half hour we had some beef meat soup with pasta. It wasn’t too bad except from overcooked pasta. But who could ever except that pasta elsewhere than Italy was going to be ‘al dente’.
The first night on the bit was quite intact and entertaining. My friends couldn’t sleep. I collapsed at 7pm and woke up at 5 am to do my yoga practice. I found the spot to practise standing positions by the captain kockpit. I was welcomed by the captain who invited me to practice near by. To do the inversions I came back to our spot whit hummocks and practice some shoulders-stand and backbends (wheel pose). By the time of breakfast 6:30am I was done with my yoga practice.
For breakfast they served some fruit: watermelon, ham/cheese/eggs sandwich, my favourite Inhame - white route/potato, Jaffa cake, cukkies and cafe con leche (coffee with milk super sweet).
There is a stand by time before each meal when we need to cue at least for an hour. This is annoying but we can not change it.
Then I had the shower in a smelly bathroom with the amazon river water.
I usually have a nap before lunch when the heat is extreme over 35 cel degrees. There is no wind at some point even if we are sailing on the boat. We are staying on the second - last deck, therefore the heat is unbearable for at least a couple of hours. I take the shower few times a day to refresh and have some more energy. The water we use on board comes from the river. The Amazon river is brown because of the vast vegetation, but hopefully is not dirty at least won’t damage the skin.
After lunch I take another nap, later on shower and yoga practice and dinner.
Again waiting in a cue for 1 hour to get some food. Usually they serve the same for lunch and for a dinner with a little modification. Basically meat is the main dish here: chicken or beef, followed by rise, pasta and beans.
On the 3rd day of sailing I fell sick with the food poisoning. Usually during the first week of stay in Brazil or any other underdeveloped country I get sick. I’m not sure if it was because of something I ate before boarding or on the boat. The matter of fact is that I was really unwell. I couldn’t move, the only afford I was making - it was to go to the toilet. Not mentioning how disgusting were the toilets. I found my technique of fleshing out the toilet and washing all with the shower and then taking the shower myself. At the end it was working out for me. Surprisingly the male toilets were cleaner than female ones. So I was using the male ones. The hygienics on the boat were none. Considering the Covid 19 time nothing has changed.
As I traveled along the Amazon river 3 years ago from Belem to Manaus, I’m traveling now - three years later with the pandemics of Covid 19 and it’s the same reality. Crowded boat with zero hygienics. I couldn’t really judge these poor people of Amazonia-Indians. They are the poorest and the most taken advantage of population around the world. The government feeds them with money for each new child they give the birth to and alcohol to make them silent. In fact on the boat every evening the crew members with some passengers were having heavy parties while drinking a lot of alcohol. Every morning when I was going for my yoga practice at 5 am, one of the captains was completely drunk. Apparently this route from Manaus to Tabatinga is famous for sex trade. Little girls go with whoever is keen to pay them for sex. They are young 12 years old and pretty. It makes me sick just a though that things like this are still happening. Usually the foreigners are the power engine for this sex trade to happen. Now because of the Covid 19 pandemics the natives take advantage of their girls as the international Tourism was bounded for last 6 months or so. Amazonia in this aspect is dirty and sick. Likely there is another positive aspect of Amazonia - its outstanding nature and hidden original tribes somewhere there in the middle of the jungle. These tribes are maintaining their real values and character without following the ignorant crowd. Unfortunately most of the population is wick and stick to the easiest solutions dictated by the government. Government manipulates native Indians by giving them a little bit of money in exchange of their own identity. They get €400 support from the government for each new born baby. So many dysfunctional families with many kids and no father or an alcoholic are created. This is really sad to watch. It’s difficult not to judge. We can not really do anything as long as we remain in the comfort of our well developed economically western world.
Day 4th I felt a little bit better, had some breakfast after fasting the day before. A lot of passengers - more than half - left the boat in Sao Paolo of Amazonia. I presume the following two nights should be more peaceful.
I didn’t really hear the chaos as I was sick and constantly sleeping. My friend Rosy was really annoyed by the noise and she moved her hummock somewhere else she could find a little bit of peace. She also had an argument with the crew. They closed the kitchen before the estimated time to serve breakfast. She went mental and they finally served us breakfast. I was still sick so for me it wasn’t making any difference either I was going to eat or not. My traveling companions were really hungry. We’ve been served a couple of ham and cheese sandwiches and some corn cake with coffee milk. Unfortunately we weren’t offered the fruit which was the only source of healthy diet during three meals we had daily.
We still had two more days left before the end of our Amazonian boat trip from Manaus to Tabatinga. I was feeling much better but still too wick to do my yoga practice. Eventually I had two students during our trip: my friend Rosangela (my age - 44 years old) and a little 8 years old native Indian girl. They were missing me for last 24 hours yoga free as I couldn’t get out of my hummock due to the stomach ache.
After 24 hours of sickness I started feeling a little bit better. I’ve had my first meal since the sickness and the food poisoning returned. I think the reason of it was the juice which was served every lunch. I had to cope with discomfort and constant diarea followed by painful stomach cramps. I guess I needed to get to used fo it. Usually it is a part of the experience in the countries like Brazil and the rest of South America. My body has to readjust by building the antibodies.
We haven’t had the internet since our Amazon river trip. It’s nice to be cut out of the civilisation. We forget about the past and the world we belonged to and live in the present. All my life I left behind and went on the trip around South America.
Finally after 6 days of sailing and visiting various Amazonian poor Indigenous villages we arrived at Tabatinga-the boarder between Brazil, Colombia and Peru.
We asked someone who turned up to be a Captain to give us a lift to the Colombian bordering city of Leticia. It took us approx 5 min to her to the centre of Leticia by car. We gave him 1$, he wasn’t very happy. But because we took Uber few times in Brazil we knew that it was a good fee. We ended up by the nearest hotel he dropped us at and we started looking for a cheap accommodation. At the hotel they wanted per bight 135 000 Columbian Pesos COP (€32) per 3 people with breakfast included. It was definitely too much for our low budget expectations. Eventually we went to a travel agency where we were provided with a tour guide. He offered us a 2 day tour to the Amazonian forest for 250 000 COP (€75) and 20 000 COP (€5) (per 1 night x 1 person accommodation at his grandparents eco hostel.
After we settled in the hostel in Colombia (Leticia) we went back to Tabatinga in Brazil. We tried to get some cash from one of the banks. None of the banks neither in Colombia nor in Brazil worked for all of us. Some of us couldn’t cash out money. On my Visa card I had a limit so I could only cash up to 300 000 COP (€75). I had to repeat this on the following days so we could afford our trips to the forest.
We tried to get the flight from Leticia to Bogotá but because of the Covid 19 we had to apply for transit visa in order to fly to north of Colombia and only for 14 days. We were in the middle of November and on the 1st of December the government was expecting to release the limits for the foreigners.
We put on side the trip to Bogotá and we went on two day tour to the jungle of Amazonia (270 000 COP, €65). We stayed over night at eco hostel in Leticia (20 000 COP, €4), from where we went on the tour into the jungle the following day. We took a boat - pierogies from the Santa Rosa Isla to Peru, we walked through the jungle and we had a Peruvian lunch in a nice outdoor restaurant by the Amazon river.
We arrived at the refuge in the jungle by the amazon river. We were so hot that we dreamt of jumping into the amazon river to refresh ourselves. Likely we were with a local guid who told us that we are staying by the natural amazon lake with many poisonous piranhas, caymans and electro anguilas. It’s good that we had a guid otherwise my friend Rosy and I definitely we would have swim in this water. Probably for a very short time as we would have been eaten most likely by piranhas which we fished the next day for breakfast.
After settling in the refuge by the water, our guid prepared us a really nice dinner of lentils, fish and rise. After the dinner we went for a last night walk in the jungle. We watched different species of tarantulas and scorpions. This part of the jungle trip was excited.
While being asked by the guid to be silent in the forest in the night we exploded with a laughter and we were punished by walking back to the refuge. Actually o was pretty happy to return and go to sleep.
When the guid and others returned we all went to sleep. 4 of us - clients were sharing the same room. We slept on the beds with mosquitoes nets by the weather in open space wooden house. The bathroom was like a bar by bathroom with all the facilities such as sink, toilet amd shower but none of them was working. We had to use some water from the amazon river, by filling up the bowl. We were worried that we could catch some piranhas by accident while washing, especially some intimate parts.
When you travel in the jungle you need to adjust to the circumstances which are completely different to the ones you might expect in your comfortable western life style. The hot and underdeveloped countries have no idea what we are used to and wherever you go there is always a surprise. Whatever you’ve been told, get rid of any expectations otherwise you’ll be disappointed .
As we went to sleep at very first half an hour hour guid who was sleeping next door, started making very strange noises. I was pretty sure he was masturbating himself. The next day he told us that he had some nightmares. He was strangled by male representatives of our team. He basically blamed us for his luck of sleep. Instead he was masturbating. It left us with such a disgust that we lost host respect. On the second day of our jungle experience we crossed the jungle for another couple of hours and returned to our base in Leticia - the ghost hostel - Eco Hostal. This was a really very hostel with the humid rooms without the windows except from one, unfortunately this time that room was already take and we were offered the one without the windows and bathroom. Actually there were some windows with the corridor view. The doors you couldn’t lock inside and outside you needed your lock. Also once you left the hostel on your return you’ll find the outdoor locked without anyone to open. There was no reception. There was a little travel agency office of the grandson of the owner. Sebastian would come and go so wither he would close his office or ask his clients or friend to look after it. It was such a different world from what we are used to in Europe.
Because I’ve used to travel to South America, I knew what to expect. But if you have never been there and you travel on a low budget then yes you can be very surprised and sometimes disappointed if you don’t take it easy.
This three no land border towns of Brazil, Colombia and Peru are very unique. They are dirty, noisy and crowded. There is nothing special but the transit point to go to other parts of South America such as Peru, Equador, Bolivia and Chille. During the pandemics of Covid 19 the restrictions are in place and it’s much more difficult to travel internally. It’s easy to travel by plane from another country but not possible to travel via land.
We decided to move on. My brasilian friend didn’t want to take a risk and travel by boat to Iquitos in Peru as clandestine. She decided on the third week of our southern American adventure to come back home in Brazil - Porto Gallinas. I couldn’t blame her fir such a decision as people can easily deseapire especially during the pandemics there are many murders on the borders. She told us that we probably won’t get into the troubles as we are European tourists. She wondered what would have happened to her as a brazilian tourist.
We decided to separate in 4 days time. Antonio and I booked the flights to Cartagena throng Bogotá, to San Andres and back to Bogotá. From there we were supposed to travel to Peru and other South American countries via land.
On the day of our departure 18 Nov Rosy woke up early to put her hammock in a nice spot in the way from Tabatinga to Manaus. This time her trip was scheduled for 3 day’s instead of 6 as we did on the way to Leticia. She apparently found a better standard boat for BR 250 with meals included.
We said goodbye at 6 am and she left. A and I had a hudge breakfast made of 10 eggs and arepa (South American pancake) with cheese. I made few sandwiches with leftovers and we left our jungle animals and humans friends.
We stayed in this super economical camping Xingu (77000 COP/ €20 x3 people x4 nights) 2 km away from Leticia. The place was difficult to find, didn’t have any asfald. It was basically typical Amazonian jougle style. In the middle of the bush, with chickens, dogs, cats and tropical fruit trees.
On the day of our flight Leticia-up to the capital of Colombia-Bogotá and then to Cartagena we packed and got to the airport 3 hours before the flight (10min by tuk-tuk 6 000 COP/1.5$). We went through the gates and while waiting for the plane to board we’ve been asked for the passports. We haven’t had any stamps of entry to Colombia from Brazil. We couldn’t get on the plane. I’ve tried everything in order to get our tickets back. I’ve spoken to the Colombian migrations explaining that we are in transit so they sent us to the consul of Colombia in Brazil-Tabatinga. I’ve spoken to the customer service of LATAM (South American Airlines) to save our flight tickets. Nothing worked out. We had to take it easy and head back to Leticia to the travel agency we bought the fight tickets from. We had to stay in the eco tribu hostel (20 000 COP/$5 x person x night) for the following three days to sort out our tickets with the agency, Eventually we’ve managed to save our lost flights. This time as went to the Colombian consul in Tabatinga-Brazil and we asked for the transit visa in order to fly from Leticia to Bogotá. We had to send an email to the consulate with the copy of passports and the reservation of the flights to bogof and out to Lima. We’ve made a reservation without booking abs submitted the papers we had one week before our reserved flight Leticia-Bogotá. We couldn’t really go into the deep jungle to chill out as we needed an internet access and the electronic to charge the phones. We came back to camping Xingu where we’ve used to stay few days earlier.
While waiting for any news from the Colombian consulate in Tabatinga we were leading normal indigenous life style. Cooking our own meals, based on cheese arepa with some eggs, rise with black beans and chicken, chicken and vegetable soup, pumpkin soup, platanas maduras (plantains), guava, cafe con leche. During the day and night it was so hot and humid that was impossible to stay in a little cabana in the hummock. The intensity of heat and bites of many different insects was unbearable. During the day around 12 or 1pm I would go to swim in the Amazon river 5 min away from camping Xingu. In the evening was becoming a little bit better if there was a rain, without the rain it was steamed and humid. With the mosquitos and not only bites we were getting more infected. My only relif was only in the river. Though the water was brown, the button was dirty and sometimes there were many kids jumping to watch the foreigners. I was Stil swimming 20 min back and forward at least for 45min - 1 hour to have some more movement in the fresh environment so I wouldn’t be eaten by the instructs. My morning 1 and half hour yoga practice was always painful as the mosquitoes and little flights and termites would get me. If was impossible to have more than 2 min shavasana if I didn’t want to be eaten live. Sometimes we would go for a walk to the Leticia’s town just to have some WiFi connection in the park and manage my London’s life. After two weeks of staying in the jungle at camping Xingu I went to the Colombian migration. I was told that the borders between Colombia, Brazil and Peru will be closed from 1st December until the 16th of January. Instead of releasing the restrictions, they were reinforcing them. That was a time to make the decision what to do next. I lost my hope of being able to use the flights within Colombia and travel from Leticia to Cartagena and then to Sam Andres island and back to Bogotá. I was ready to sacrifice the €200 I paid for flights, and I wasn’t going to sacrifice my body any longer to be eaten by the insects in the Forrest. I’ve already changed the Colombian pesos into Peruvian ones as I thought we could cross illegally the borders between Leticia and Santa Rosa to go to Machu Pichu in Peru. But because of the reinforced restrictions we didn’t want to risk anymore by traveling as refugees. We made a choice of return by boat to Manaus in Brasil and take from there. The only guaranty we had was our entry stamp in Brazil and visa for 90 days. We didn’t want to loose it as the main flights we were going to loose where return to london from Brazil. The decision was based on this fact. When boarding we were investigated and checked by the Brazilian border officials. We were asked questions where we were coming from, from Colombia or Brazil. I said from Brazil-Tabatinga, which partially was truth because we stayed on the border between Leticia (Colombia) and Tabatinga (Brazil). They asked how long-I said 3 days instead of 3 weeks. Why we came - I answered that we were traveling with our Brazilian friend. Everything was truth bedside the length which I don’t think really mattered. We were very lucky that we didn’t get an exit from Brazil stamp in our passport. Otherwise we wouldn’t be able to get any other entry stamp to Colombia or Peru. Without being aware of it I used my intuition and didn’t take a risk of being in no man land as few tourists did. I new that I couldn’t continue my trip around South America at this point unless I was going to fly from Brazil out to Lima and Santiago de Chile. I didn’t want to think too much while I was in holiday. At the end Brazil is such a vast and wonderful country that I can visit it as many tunes as I wish and always find some special places. Three weeks in the Amazon jungle without the possibility of traveling was probably brought for the rest of my life. I loved the experience and people but I couldn’t stand the bites anymore. I was missing the ocean and the breeze of the wind. I must say that the interrogation of the Brazilian borders official was very unpleasant and made me feel that my human right as a freedom of traveling were avoided. We were treated as criminals, questioned our truth and dignity. I felt attacked by Brazilians and as much as I love Brazil I felt really bitter and angry towards Brazilians at that instance while being checked as we were boarding.
Finally when got on board and put the hummock on I started feeling safe again. The breeze of wind was very helpful and reduced number of insects was promising. I’ve got a shower, watched some American movie in Portuguese to distract myself. I sat down in the most ventilated point on the boat and was looking forward to the meal I didn’t appreciate any more at the end of the last trip Manaus- Tabatinga. I was so looking forward to it again on the way back as I was starving,
2nd December
The day of my 45’th bday. It’s hard to believe that I’ve already lived over half of my life. I feel like there is still a lot to do and experience, many places to visit and many projects to run. After a busy night of people coming on board and the boat getting up to its full capacity I couldn’t sleep well. I got up at 5:30 am - as I used to do on the way to Tabatinga - to do my yoga practice. At 6:30 am there was a call for breakfast. During the Covid 19 time there is a request to use your own places and cutlery in the dining area. Of course I didn’t have any. Likely I’ve been given some plastic staff. Actually I think that’s a good idea to have your own plates and cutlery to save the environment. As soon as we arrived to Sant’Antonio we’ve been approached by the Brazilian Federal Police, asked the same questions from the previous interrogation in Tabatinga: where we are traveling to, for how long are we going to stay in Brazil and so on. Their approach was different and much more friendly than the others. We didn’t feel like criminals, we felt welcomed and we understood that they were doing their job. I’ve asked if they were after the drugs, they confirmed they did. I said that we were travellers and against the drugs. I’ve mentioned that I’m an yoga instructor and also an artist who raises awareness of violation of human rights through performing arts. I said that they couldn’t find someone more anti-drugs than myself. They wished us a safe journey. Because we are traveling in the cargo boat from three borders: Peru, Colombia and Brazil, heading back to Manaus in Brazil. Colombia as everyone knows is knows as the spice trim of cocaine. Therefore there are very strict controls on the way to Manaus as there are many drugs dealers shipping the cocaine.
During the day 12-4pm in Amazonias is super hot. It’s a critical time to survive the heat (35 cel degrees) and humidity (89%}. O struggle all the time to keep myself awake and energised. This is the reason why south Americans have siesta during this time. The heat is different than in Mediterranean climate. The Amazonian climate is very have and the insects don’t help to feel light. I fell off the Joo mock on my birthday 2nd of December on the boat the way to Manaus. I felt even note down and tires with a higher bum and headache. As soon as I recovered and not even fully from the one room of the insects bites, I’ve ended up recovering from the hummock’s fall. There is always something to recover from unless the journey would be too boring. On the boat I kept having a new bites. There is no way to stay away from the flies, termites and mosquitoes.
Advantages of traveling to Amazonia in the winter time in Europe during Covid 19:
Dressing light
Eating outdoors
Cheap food
Not wearing masks
Living in the nature
Meeting new people indigenous from different tribes
Exploring a new culture
Learning languages: Spanish and Portuguese
Disadvantages:
Too hot and humid
The bed nutrition
Expensive fruits and vegetables
Infection from the insects bites
Not being able to sleep because of the heat
Stomach problems - food poisoning
Flew
Because of covid19:
Not being able to travel via land and river only via air
Loosing the flights
Being treated as criminals
Heading back to Brazil felt safe and right. Three weeks of incertity, not knowing what’s going to happen to transit visa through Colombia and if the purchased flight tickets will be saved. Staying in the camping, living in the hummock and being a main meal of mosquitoes, dealing with the tremendous heat and humidity left me with a wish for a little bit of comfort. I war missing the sea. If I could travel around South America, visit Machu Pichu in Peru, salta in Chille, and other places in Bolivia and Equador I wouldn’t mind not having the beach holiday. But because we were stuck in the jungle of Amazonia for three weeks I was craving for the sea. The best sea in South America is in Brazil. I’ve experienced it as I traveled along the north east coast of Brazil from Rio De Janeiro until Belem 3 years ago.
On this journey my return flights to London were from Recife in Brazil and my Brazilian friend was living near by Recife in Porto de Gallinas.
While sailing on the boat Tabatinga - Manaus I still couldn’t figure out the final itinerary. I wanted to be by the sea for sometime but also I haven’t given up on the idea of flying to Peru and Santiago De Chile when flight tickets were going to decrease after the Xmas.
While dealing with the headache After I felt down from the hummock I could still appreciate the Beaty of Amazon river. A large, deep and long over 7 000 km brown river, with incredible vegetation on its bank and inside, with the history of many indigenous tribes (80), different languages, customs and cultures were still taking over my miserable state of mind and taking me on the adventure into unknown and difficult journey.
I wasn’t scared of covid19 restrictions, of borderers officials treating foreigners like a shit in a fascist way, insects eating me a live and tremendous heat I was cooping with out of despair.
I was looking forward to the adventure for the next two months of my trip. I knew deep inside that everything was going to work out the way I wanted. I didn’t loose my faith.
I was having a great time for the first month of my trip while sailing back and forth Manaus-Tabatinga-Manaus, living as refugee in the jungle of Colombia and traveling to the jungle of Peru. Practicing my Spanish, tasing empanadas with carne (meat) and pollo (chicken), arepas with queso (cheese), swimming and doing laundry with the indigenous children and their moms in the amazon river. The only downside of the trip was the heat and the insects which would never leave me alone.
Joe
In the jungle I’ve met this amazing person from London ex veteran - Joe. He came to Colombia - Leticia few months ago and he had his passport stamped out. He was living in no man land between Tabatinga (Brazil) and Leticia (Colombia). He was a refugee during the time of Covid 19. Every time the clouded of land borders was expanded he was celebrating his freedom of belonging to nowhere. He belonged to julie self, his own ideal world free of corruption, ignorance and stupidly of the narrow minded and fascist governments monopolising the whole world. People in power were taking advantage of “pandemics” to manipulate people who were Brandon washed by media. He stepped out of the whole nonsense to serve the world with the truth. He served to the YK during his military service for 10 years, he fought in Iraq. He was devoted to his service. When he came out of the British army he went through the physical and mental metamorphosis. He became a spiritual and aware human being. He tried to pass on the thruth about the world propaganda and political power of governing officials trying to take over the peaceful world we’ve been living before populists in power and covid19. He was truthful and sincere. Yet the special services tried to get rid of him, he was invigilated and miss-treated.
He finally found his peace in AMAZONIA where he served his purpose to the indigenous community. He built the shutter for them and others who would like to explore the jungle. He became an outsider. He loves animals who he heals. He naturally attracts like minded positive and idealistic people, full of optimism that the world will become a better place.
He is inspirational and gives sense of belief that nothing is over. It’s just the beginning of the worse to come in order to awake the awareness of ignorants and the best to come.
He is an artist, an actor, a poet, a guitarist and a wonderful singer. His lyrics are meaningful and unique. They talk about the truth, Feedom and peace. His thoughts are sad and constructive, his being is painful and happy, his soul is free. He believes that we all have a feminine and masculine side in order to love and be intuitive.
I would like to pay tribute to all ex veterans who served to their countries for the idea of helping and saving people and nations. Very often they ended up suffering and not being recognised for their heroism. The military service screwed up many of soldiers by taking their limbs and very often lives away. Many of their minds were taken away as well because of the mental health disorders.
I hope Joe one day will succeed with spreading his love and hope a cross the globe and he will be thanked for that.
Joe good luck in making the world a better place!!!
I hope that Amazon jungle’s experience will reinforce your status quo and help to spread out the ideas and believes about safe and peaceful world without mediocrity and stupidity.
Amazon river’s cruise
I’ve sailed along the Amazon’s river from Belem to Manaus (7 days) 3 years ago, from Manaus to Tabatinga (6 days Nov 2020) and Tabatinga to Manaus (4 days (Dec 2020). The boats varied as well as the cleanest and meals did. The best boat our of three was “Diamanté” from Tabatinga to Manaus. The whole comfort on the boat, cleaness and the meals were much better that on the previous boats. The “Profet Daniel” Manaus-Tabatinga was the worst ever experience, the poorest hygienics and living conditions. The noise and very bad behaviour all way through. The smelly toilets, luck of fruits and vegetables and variety of food, the loud music and late night parties were going on for the whole 6 days trip. The way to Colombia seemed to have lower class passengers and really bad attitude. While on the way back to Manaus, the passengers looked more middle class. Indeed we met a Peruvian lawyer with his Brazilian medical doctor wife. He was a penalty lawyer on Peru and she was an indigenous doctor in Amazonias. They were well educated and very cultured. It felt like we had a little bit of Western culture with is. Everyone on the boat seems to put a lot of afford to smell amd look good. There is a Fashion and perfumes competitions going on. I felt underdressed. Being honest form me the poor standard and cargo boat with a lot of insects except from passengers doesn’t invite to dress well and have my hair and make up on. As much as one would imagine the good standard of this particular boat “Diamanté”, it is still a heavy, industrial, very basic standard cargo boat to transport the merchandise and additionally passengers who were self sustaining with their own hummocks to sleep on. The only service we had were the meals 3 times a day. The experience was nice, especially by the sunrise and sunset when the colours of the trees along the bank of the river and sky were fabulous. The heavy tropical rain few times a day was such a relief considering the steamy and hot weather during the day 12-4pm. I loved the shower. It didn’t have the clearest water as the source was from the Amazon river but it had and incredible strong stream. The temperature of the water was just nice and refreshing. Of course naturally heated by the sun.
The people were clean and polite. I was in the centre of attention as I was the only white and naturally blond woman. Next to my hummock I had a designated space by the Towels to practice yoga.
While on the way from Manaus to Tabatinga we didn’t have and police controls, on the way back from Tabatinga to Manaus we had plenty of the police federal control. The last one was during the night. We were asked to wake up, get out of the hummocks and put the baggage in the row in the middle of the boat. We realised that all people were standing by both sides of the boat with suitcases in the row. The police of course investigated us - me and Antonio - as we were the only tourists. Tourists apparently are the biggest target for the coccaine trafficking. We are seen as wealthy and the only ones who go to Colombia to buy cocaine. Which in reality is not true, we are just a poor tourists who travel using the Covid 19 excuse and see the world for nothing. It’s much cheaper to travel around the world than living in London or on Amalfi Coast. We made few jokes with the police authorities and after one hour of control using also the anti drugs dog they left the boat and we came back to sleep.
It was a pretty huge impact on one’s sense of safety and freedom. All put by the wall and judged as criminals. This fashist approach started with Covid 19 and continues through drugs and other issues the southern American countries are coping with. I’m questioning why don’t they fight against sex trade instead? Because it would affect the third world countries authorities being super corrupted and playing the biggest part of that unethical and inhuman business spreading out across the whole world.
After we came back to Manaus I’ve got sick. I had such a bad stomach that I was stuck at Billy Hostel for a week with a really bad diarea.
One month earlier as soon I arrived at Brazil I’ve been sick in the boat Manaus to Tabatinga, all the time I was resting in the hummock with intervals of going to the bathroom quite often. Likely the bathrooms had both: a toilet and a shower. The Hygienics were really poor but I found the system to clean the bathroom with the shower before entering it.
5-9 December
Manaus
One month later I fund my self in the same situation but being in the bed. Billy Hostel was a very basic, low budget accommodation led by the biochemical scientist who was publishing the book about Amazonia in collaboration with Germany, Colombia and Brazil. He spoke perfect English as originally he is from English speaking Guiana. He was mainly organising the trips to the jungle for Foreigners and providing them with the accommodation. When the Covid 19 crisis started he switched his activity into hostel receiving mainly Brazilians. From international tourism he switched into the national one. The price for 1 night for 2 pp was really good B$65 (€10) including breakfast. It was probably the best breakfast we have had so far during our trip. We were served a variety of fruits: watermelon, ananas, papaya; fresh tropical guava juice directly from the garden; fresh rolls, butter, ham, cheese, homemade pancakes, tapioca and occasionally homemade lemon cake. The owner’s name was Ananas from indigenous tribe. His mum couldn’t have children, eventually he was born. She gave him a name of Ananas. Ananas grows as a solitary fruit. Therefore as a single child he was called Ananas. I found it funny and special. Ananas in English means Pineapple. Him and his son as hosts of the Billy Hostel - had a good way of dealing with tourists. They were always available to help. The place beside being very basic and cheap was very clear which we really appreciated. If was just nice to stay there especially during my stomach’s revolution.
My Brazilian friend Rosangela suggested to go to the waterfalls in Presidente Figueiredo. Instead of going again to the jungle on the organised tour we decided to chill out by the waterfalls.
As it was near Manaus - by taxi 1 h, by bus 2.5h. I’ve booked an Uber (B$ 170) which lead us after 10 min of drive in the middle of the Manaus city. He mentioned that his car was broken.
I went to the shop to get the brazilian mobile number so I could have internet. I was very lucky to have met two kind Jung people who worked in the pharmacy to sort out the registration as a foreigner. It took two hours to try to sort it out and eventually it didn’t work out.
The girl - Isabella hotspoted me so I could get another Uber for Presidente Figueiredo. When the driver arrived he wanted to charge us double for the ride. He explained that’s too cheap on the Uber app. At this point I gave up on Uber. Isabella suggested us to take a taxi and go to the bus station - Rodoviario. So we did. We only spent B$10 to get there by taxi. The ticket for Presidente Figueiredo was B$30 each in two hours. We had something to ear and finally we left. At the end all the bad luck turned into a good luck as we saved money and had a pleasant trip. Though it was freezing cold in the bus. The air-con is set up at least for 17 cel degrees while outside is around 35.
South America is full of contradictions and no logic. Brazil is probably the beat organised one but still far away from the developed countries.
When you travel to underdeveloped countries you always need to remember that the time here went back and what you were used to in the western world you have to leave behind. Otherwise you will be unhappy. As soon as you give up on the western comfort and habits, you become as happy as Brazilians are. Apparently they are the most smiling people in the world.
If you check online the rate of crime and danger in the world is right there - South and Central America: Venezuela, Colombia, Mexico, Brazil, Honduras, El Salvador, Nicaragua,... These are exact locations of my trips. If I was following the internet advice where to travel I would never go anywhere but around London. Though even London had a really hight rate of crime, especially where o live - south east. That’s why probably I feel joke in the Latin community.
The whole world could be a danger to humans. We are the ones who create it. We get what we give. If you give out good, you’ll take in good and vice versa.
9-15 December 2020
Presidente Figueiredo
Finally at 4pm on the 9th of December 2020 we were on the bus Manaus-Presidente Figueiredo. It took us few hours since we left the hostel at 10 am to get to the bust stop of Manaus, which was only 15 min away from the hostel.
This shows you how difficult is every step we take to move on in South America. Even if you think you understood how the system works but there is always a surprise.
When we arrived we didn’t know where to go. Because I’m a foreigner therefore can not register my phone with a brazilian number therefore im off line. It makes the whole trip much more challenging but in the same time more interesting.
We walked a little while with our rock-sucks 20 min and we asked for the indication from a local girl to go to the posada.
We were right there next to the Val’s posada (B$140/€22 x1 night x 2 pp with breakfast included. The accommodation was clean with the bathroom and great breakfast. For the second time during 1 and half month trip we had AC. The first was at the Billy hostel in Manaus. We couldn’t complain. It was the best standard we have had so far so we were enjoying the comfort. Also it was the second place after Billy Hostel with a good WiFi.
The next day of our stay we’ve met a couple - she was Mexican American and he was Brazilian. They were so kind to take us by their car to one of the best in their opinion waterfalls in Presidente Figueiredo- Santiario
They have already been there on a different occasion. So it was really a big gesture of kindness to take us there. They both met online and when they met in person he proposed to her at the airport. She cried from happiness. They seemed to be a very much in live couple.
At the entrance of The Santuario Waterfall I paid B$ 10 each (x4). We walked to the waterfall approx 15 min. As we were walking we talked and all suddenly this beautiful landscape of wafer opened in front of us. The waterfall was beautiful and it was accessible by walk. I’ve been practicing the hydro massage under the strong stream of water massaging my shoulders. I had some swim as the current wasn’t that strong and after a while we left. We went together to the Public waterfalls where we swam. It was probably the best spot to swim. The river was large amd deep in some places, the current was strong amd circular. There was no way out. I was just letting the current guide me without putting too much afford into it. Yet I’ve managed to swim for quite a while. In the afternoon they took us back to the Val’s Posadas where we all stayed. It was such a nice and fulfilling day. They were about to leave the fallowing day.
The next day we took a taxi B$20 and went to the caves: Moroaga and Judeia. We had to pay the guide B$70 to enter the eco reserve. Apparently we were the only tourists at that time and he didn’t want to decrease the price and we didn’t want to wait. We agreed to pay him that fee. I think it was too much but still only €10 for us. We spent in the forest a couple of hours. The walk was very pleasant and the caves were worth to visit. They were a refuge for the indigenous as well as for Jews.
He was so kind to give us a lift to the motor taxi but finally we choose to walk instead.
We met the local guy who took us to the nearest public waterfall -Grota do Raio. It was not far front the centre of Presidente Figueiredo. If was closed because of the Covid 19 restrictions. People were still getting in from different parts of the Forrest for free.
Most of the caves and waterfall in Presente Figueiredo are private and those during the pandemics were opened. The public ones are only few and you can visit them for free because they are officially closed if this makes sense;)
We walked back quite a while towards our posada. We had a good excuse to go for a fish dinner. I was desiring this huge fish - fillet almost without bones, only with the big ones - tambaki.
It was the local grilled fish which was delicious. It was teal bargain! We paid only B$45/€7 for two with side dishes. It was the best dish we have had so far on this trip!!!
After 4 days in posada we were asked to leave as they were fully booked. We were disappointed to hear it, especially considering we were the longest staying clients;) It was a time to move on and go to camp.
I did the research online and found the Natal Fall. It was in a remote place far away from the town and sit a very bed access. 9 km of Amazonian (dirt) road with so many halls and obstacles. We took a cap (R$80) and we went for our only live experience. The place was magical, just the way I was expecting it. We had to walk 1 km which is quite a walk considering the conditions of the dirt walk, the Amazonian jungle’ s heat and the weight of my bag. I was carrying on a tent. But it was worth if afford. As we entered the big green fold with a kind of radar shelter we were greeted by some brazilian tourists. They told us to set up our tent and pay R$15 each when the owner comes. So we did. Once we set up the tent we said hello to the host. He was such a nice and kind young man. I read the reviews that he was the rudest host. So it was an opposite and very positive experience when we met him. We used the kitchen and went for a swim. As I entered the waterfall area which was 5 min away from the host’s hut, I was breath taken. The judge waterfall was on the left and ahead a nice spot to swim. The place was unique with an exceptional energy. It was the place we were searching for. I didn’t cross the river on the first day to reach the waterfall and take advantage of the strong hydro massage. I’ve swam on top of it. Towards the evening I saw some heavy men reached the waterfall by swim and disappeared behind it. It was a sign that’s possible. The night was beautiful. We slept in the hummocks by the river with this strong sound of waterfall and the jungle. It was exceptional! There were millions of stars in the sky and so many falling stars. I kept setting up the wishes. The fallowing day I want fir a swim to reach the waterfall. There were after guys who were terrified of doing so. I’ve encountered them and we all made it. From then on the waterfall was ours. Unfortunately natal fall was only opened during the weekends and we arrived on Saturday the 12th of December. Kindly our host saw how badly we wanted to stay there that he offered us to stay there for free for one or couple of days. He closed barrack so we couldn’t use the kitchen but we could come under the tooth in case of rain. In fact that night when everyone left at midnight we needed to move under the roof. The huge rain came and we were likely save and dry.
I’ve loved my time doing yoga, swimming, sunbathing and being in such a close contact with the nature. Unfortunately we didn’t have enough provision to stay there more than other two days. In total after 4 days we had to leave because of the lock of food. It was such a shame. But also it was a time to go. We had to wish us the best of luck to find someone who could take us by car. It was still raining when we left, we walked for an hour or so and the car arrived. A couple took us to the centre of Presidente Figueiredo. We went for the last fish meal and açai and we caught at 4pm the bus for Manaus. We hoped to find some place available at the Billy Hostel where we have already stayed. When we arrived there was no room available so we needed to book somewhere else near by.
It was around 8pm when we arrived we at Aldeia Hostel. I don’t think they changed the sheets. At the first instance I’ve got a really bad impression. But the customer service was quick to react and fully professional. The night was pretty loud because of the other guests talking till late. The breakfast was average.
16-20 Dec 2020
The next day we left for Manaus - Belem boat cruise.
This was the forth time I’ve taken a big boat so far on the Amazon river. One three years ago Belem-Manaus and third time on this trip: Manaus-Tabatinga, Tabatinga-Manaus, Manaus-Belem.
This is definitely the last time I’ve taken a boat on the Amazon River. I was considering to fly as it would coast the same many and would be shorter 4 days. Eventually decided to have one more experience while sailing and killing the time.
Just to let you know to sail on the Amazon River is a completely different experience as opposed to sailing on the private yacht in the Mediterranean or the Caribbean.
It’s crowded with more people than spaces for hummocks. This means that everyone is sleeping so closed to the other without any privacy and space to turn from one to the other side. Not mentioning the violation of the Covid 19 restrictions of keeping 2m Sochaj distance. Here we are talking about keeping -2m distance as literally people are sleeping on top of each other. So far I’ve managed to keep a few cm distance from my neighbours, who still managed to kick me during the night. There are few people sleeping in one hummock like a while 3-4 members family. It’s unbelievable how people can adjust to such an inhuman circumstances. There is no enough toilets and bathrooms for all the passengers. The quality of only 5 bathrooms for all 1000 and more passengers is disgusting. The tickets are supposed to include three meals a day during 4 days trip. When you enter the dining area, surprise - you need to pay for each meal separately:
-B$10 special breakfast (juice, fruit, roll with egg and coffee with milk) which is never available even if you are a first customer at 6am. In fact I’ve asked the cashier when is it available. She answered “never”. This is just to show you how everything works in Brazil and the rest of South America. Brazil Serbs to be the most developed one.
- lunch and dinner: B$15 for one choice of meat and B$20 for 2
The meals are always the same: rise, overcooked pasta, beans, chicken/meat/fish. The taste amd smell is always the same. When I smell it on the boat I want to throw up. Maybe it’s jot too bad that we have to pay extra for meals. In this way we skip most of them. The meals served outside of the boat when we stop shortly are as much disgusting as the ones on the boat. There is no really choice. Whatever I buy on the street I get sick after. The fruit is rarely available unless you are really lucky. Forget about the vegetables. Maybe you can find some tomatoes occasionally.
Basically Brazil is as much third world country as the rest of South America and conditions here are horrible. Yet I’ve been here so far 5 times because I love the nature, the Amazonia and the coast.
On the first day of my boat trip Manaus-Balem one passenger got of the the board, ended up in the strong stream of the Amazon river and never had been found. Our boat “Amazonia Star” stoped for 15 min and then moved on like nothing has happened. There was no way they could save him as they did Int have any extra safe boat to put in the water and try to find him. Also the current was too strong so took him away quickly. Nobody knew what happened. Nobody knew his name. I suspect someone pushed him in the water as they were few fights going on. People here drink hard, loose their minds and lives. After this incident the bar continued to sell the alcohol, the music was loud and people were getting more and more drunk. When we reached the main port In Santarem we stayed there over night until the 11am in the morning. I’m not sure that was due to the death of one of many passengers who I’m sure die on those boats without any reason.
This is a cruel reality of South America and probably the reason why on the first pages of google research Brazil comes as one of the most dangerous countries with a high crime. I’m not surprise seeing what’s going on with my own eyes.
As much as I’m a big supporter of South America, I am also a big supporter of human rights. I can not watch things like this happening and remain silent. I fought for free meals and it ended up with no answer and if I was going to do anything to stop death incidents from happening I would have ended up death myself. For the first time during my traveling, on this occasion I’ve realised that there is nothing else I can do, but raise awareness of what’s happening. I can tell the world how bad it could get and by raising awareness of violation of human rights I can help to prevent accidental death from happening. As I travel along Amazon river, as much as I experience the beautiful tribes, indigenous communities, beautiful nature, there is the other side to it - the dirt, luck of hygienics, the slams, the excruciating poverty people are living at. I’m sure I’m the only one who can see it amongst them. They seem to be happy and satisfied. They don’t want to live in the west where they feel out of place. They want to live in their reality they are used to
When I spoke to the biochemical scientist from the Billy Hostel he mentioned that actually he was in Germany and stayed in the hotel. He didn’t know how to use a hot water for a first few days in the winter because they don’t have any in Amazonia. He broke the pass system to enter his room because he has never seen one. He was thirsty for a first week because nobody served him any drinking water but empty glasses. He wasn’t aware that the tap water was a drinking one. He was on the edge of becoming and alcoholic as everyone else was drinking exclusively bear.
This makes me think how each perception can vary. Westerners come to Amazonia and struggle with a luck of hot water which is really not needed as the heat is remarkable and you only want to refresh by the cold shower. Yes westerners are still used to the habit of showering with the hot water.
We need AC, yet the locals are ok with a ventilator and not even that. They are cold in the evening when is the best temperature for us westerns.
There are many facts like this and contradictions.
At the end of the day we need to get used to the circumstances and find compassion for those who really need one.
During my last boat trip Manaus-Belem I felt like a victim. I was trapped on this packed and dirty boat with no safety regulations and limits of passengers getting on, especially during the pandemics of covid19. I was angry and unhappy. I wanted everyone to get lost and leave me alone. As the only white blond western woman on the boat I was in the centre of attention. I wanted to be invisible so nobody would ever acknowledge my existence. I wanted my space. I was fighting for it on the boat so I could breath and sleep without anyone else crashing against me. I was fed up with the inhuman conditions. It was just too much. Since 1 and half month it has been exciting to live the Amazonian life but it was also challenging to get to used to it. I know that looking back all this discomfort will be just a blurry memory.
At Santarem we went for a walk to have some nice breakfast in one of the best hostels in the areas - Imperial hotel. We had a full intercontinental breakfast made of tropical juice, fruit, eggs, corn, toasts, cakes and coffee with Milk (B$15 /€2.5 each).
When I’m back in Europe I will definitely miss this cheap meals and life style.
Saying that very often during my trip I miss eating a nutritious food especially vegetables as I can still access the fruit. The fruit and vegetables are cheap in West and so many, here the choice is super limited. You can only find some tomatoes amd cucumbers. It reminds me of Poland during the communism time.
Everyone on the boat seems to be happy and living their dream live on the cruise. They get dressed up, made up, wear a variety of different fragrances. They are clean and smell nice but many of them are too drank.
This is worming to avoid the disappointment.
"If you ever travel on the cargo boat from Manaus to Belem please do not take the "Amazonia Star". I've traveled on a few boats on the Amazon river and this was the worst experience. Overcrowded during the Covid19. There was no space to put the hummock on. We were charged extra for meals. The meals were supposed to be included in the price of B$350 but yet we had to pay for each meal extra x 4 days: breakfast B$ 5/10, lunch/dinner B$ 15/20. There was no safety regulations. One of the passengers ended up in the river and disappeared as soon as he has got there. The boat stoped for 15 min and after that moved on to the following destination Santarem like nothing happened at all. I felt unsafe and sick of dirt, garbage and luck of space. I couldn't wait until this nightmare was over. Now hapelly I'm on exit of the Amazon river and the entrance to the Atlantic Ocean on the Ilha de Algodoal, Maracanã, Para, Brazil, Arquipélago Maiandeua. This is one of the most beautiful places in Brazil and I have seen here a lot. Totally recommend. www.gowithflow.me
From 20th Dec 2020
Staying in a nice b&b:
Pousada Encanto da Ilha, Algodoal
https://g.page/algodoalencanto?share
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=places+to+visit+Ilha+de+Algodoal&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-gb&client=safari#
Google review:
https://www.google.com/maps/reviews/data=!4m5!14m4!1m3!1m2!1s111854695394582896623!2s0x0:0xae5b848b0921a634?hl=en-BR
This is the best place to stay on Algodoal on Ilha Maiandeua. The best hosts, customer service, hygienic, breakfasts, meals. In front of the Atlantic Ocean. Very much recommend to stay as long as you wish. We've been here for 3 weeks so far and wish we could stay 10 more days before heading back to Europe. It's such a nice family base place. We feel safe and at home here. You feel more welcome here than anywhere else. The hosts are honest with big hearts and they are very generous. After traveling across Amazonias we've anchored here and didn't want to move anywhere else. It's such a good spot to stay during the covid 19 lockdown in Europe. We need to return to London at some point and tô Italy.
B$150/€24 x night
x 2
Sea front view with a great breakfast. Always something new, surprising like: fruit salad, cuscus with coconut and sweet milk. It's probably the best pudding I have eaten in Brasil. On top of this speciality are served as on normal circumstances: tropical juice, fruit, tapioca with omelete and cheese, cheese bread, little pizzas, rolls, ham, cheese, coconut cake, coffee and milk.
The pousada is 5 min walking distance from a little port where we arrived from the main land in Maruda'. It's funny "Maruda'" means in Polish capricious. It takes 4 hours on a public bus from Belem to Maruda (B$40/€6.4) or 2h by taxi. It's such a nice trip at the end of the Amazon river. Still a beautiful Amazonia's vegetation with indigenous tribes living in the forest. While we are traveling on the bus we can see local fishermen are selling prawns B$25/€ €4 x 1 litre. Unfortunately they didn't get in to the bus to sell it as most of the local vendors do.
When we arrived at 4pm to Maruda, we got some coco water and by taxi (B$10/€1.6h 3km) we headed to the port of Maruda and then at 5:30pm on a little boat for half an hour to the final destination - Algodoal island.
When we arrived it was already a sunset. The colours were stunning and the first impression of the island was unique. I fell in love with this place from the first sight. I know this was a special place for me and special destination in this South American Trip itinerary.
I walked by the sea in search of b&b and the third one was the pousada Encanto de lá Ilha Just in front of the sea. For the whole time I was in the Amazônian jungle I was imagining living on this almost desert island. Almodoal island was that dreamed place for me. The front sea b&b was just a perfect place to recover after 1 and half month of humid and hot Trip along the Amazon river and across the jungle. I would recommend the Amazonian trip to everyone but I wouldn't repeat it again. It was beautiful but challenging. The covid19 restrictions didn't help either but created my itinerary. Some things I planned didn't happen such as boat trip along the Amazon river Across other South American countries such as Venezuela, Colombia, Peru, Equador and Bolívia. Instead I did the 50% of total volume of Amazon river in Brazil. Brazil contains the majority of Amazonia and the most spectacular forest and river. At the end the Amazon river enters the Atlantic Ocean. In fact Belem is the last main Amazonian city before the river meets the Atlantic Ocean. All these Amazonian towns are not attractive, they are polluted, dirty, poor, hot and super humilde. As soon as you enter them as soon you want to leave them. They are only the transit and duty free points, nothing else from the traveling point of view. My main focus of the trip was Amazonia but eventually I ended up on the Algodoal island. I didn't want to leave this island anymore. We stayed here from 20th of December over the Xmas and New Year's Eve and being honest didn't want to go anywhere else. I found my little paradise, the safe nest and freedom of doing all my physical and spiritual activities just from my place where o stayed. The owners of B&b Entanto de lá ilha were incredible. They received us offering all their hearts. At the beginning they offered us a good price for 7-10 days stay. When they are fully booked for New Years Eve they gave us the accommodation they were building so we could sleep in the hummocks only for the price of breakfast (R$15/€2 each). It was really kind of them. They didn't want us to do a wild camping because the island was overloaded by strangers. They were worried about us. So they offered us very special and economical accommodation. It was all perfect, we could still have a shelter and fantastic breakfasts they served. I had even better terrace to practice my yoga every morning. Finally we could recover from our cold or covid without aircon. The only down aid was the heat. In the night I struggled to fall asleep because of the heat. The Mosquitos were always here so to fight them I jumped onto the pool and was admiring stars and fool moon. The nights on the island were spectacular. It's not that I have never been on the tropical islands. In fact I used to live in the Caribbean but this Algodoal island somehow was closed to my heart. I felt here at home. The sea wasn't cristal clear as the Amazon river was mixing get up with the Atlantic Ocean. There were big low and high tights. The current was strong. It was hard and dangerous to swim at curtain areas. The walls and rubs along the coast were spectacular. I loved every inch of the island and every little moment spent here. I was hoping my return flights back to London were cancelled so I could build here my little hut. I could have my little retreat centre on this island. It was a perfect spot. I didn't
She any afford to look for a potential place to build my bungalow. I was taking each day as it was coming. I trusted the universe that had my back. At some point I was hoping the right offer was going to come to me in one or the other way. I knew there was no point of pushing anything. I trusted the destiny. I decided to stay still, catch up with documentaries, diary and learn some Portuguese.
In the meanwhile I was doing my yoga practice, swimming, running and walking. I was present. I gave up on searching for flights to Chille, Poland and Italy, checking the covid19 restrictions. I let it all go and detached from it. I was present and living my dream live on the desert island of Algodoal in Brazil. I was so fortunate to be here during the covid19 crisis. I knew how lucky I was. I was grateful to be able to celebrate a New Year's Eve with hounders of brazilians on the beach in safe environment while most of the world was locked down. I couldn't wish for more. I was happy with what I've been given. It was good enough for me.
The people kept arriving at the Algodoal island on little boats followed by the carriages ridden by horses, more and more people to celebrate the end of 2020 and the beginning of 2021. Most of people wish the 2020 was over. I consider the 2020 a lucky year because of the following reasons:
2020 - Covid19
-rented the proprieties in kamesznica and laliki
-built outdoor structure in the polish mountains (KAMESZNICA) for circus
-connected water in Laliki's house
-received the British citizenship
- Organised online zoom Aerial yoga teacher training
- Organised Online zoom SAF2020
- Did 7 months traveling: 3 months Europe: Poland (30days), Greece (30days), Scotland (12 days), Italy (15 days). Winter: -French Guiana and Brazil trip Dec19/Jan20; 3 months South America 2020/2021: Amazônia: Brazil, Colombia, Peru, Brazil.
- Lost job and Made redundant Dec 2020
At the end I can not complain about the bad 2020.
My ideal year will be with the short list of accomplished tasks such as proprieties rental, FlowMove retreat centre and FlowMove online academy development.
The only motive behind work must be the pleasure. I can not complain so far. Each time I develop the project I ask myself what's the purpose of it in a long run. There must be always a big part of pleasure and leasure involved.
Everything I'm doing should give me the independence and freedom of choice.
We've been on Algodoal island for almost a month. The hectic life style during the New Year's Eve holiday is left behind. Now we are enjoying the tranquility and the beauty of this incredible place.
This place found me, I've been traveling a lot to so many tropical destinations mainly Latin: South and Central America. I lived a long time ago in the Carribbean and there was never a right time for me to settle down and buy the property in tropics until now.
Because of the covid 19 pandemics as an aerial/dance/yoga instructor and performing artist as most of other people from my sector, I've been off work since the end of March 2019. It's been almost a year.
During this time I was most productive than ever before. I had the opportunity to do what I didn't have chance to do in the past - traveling.
After a few months of traveling in Europe and South America finally I ended up on this incredible Atlantic Amazonian island - Maiandeua.
It is an archipelago of: Algodoal, Camboihna, Mocooca and Fortalezinha.
Since a month we've been living in Algodoal at Pousada Encanto da ilha owned by such incredible hosts. They became our family and we couldn't move out anymore. We met the best generous people here. Marcia the owner of bar (cultural space) on Princessinha beach, who is such a talented musician and big hearted woman. She moved to this island from Belem 20 years ago and she never moved back. She set up her nest on Algodoal where she has been promoting the local artists of Carimboa since then. She has an incredible spirit and way of sharing. She always welcome us at hers incredible space immersed in the nature.
We met at hers her Friends: Ieda and Alessandro. As soon as we met them they offered us for free the keys to their house on the Algodoal island. We ended up staying during the day at Encanto da Ilha Pousada were we had served incredible breakfast and fantastic energy from they owners and the staff members. They didn't want us to go, we didn't want to go either. We found the comprise and stayed in both places in the same time. During the day I had my favourite space to practice yoga (7-10am) by the swimming pool at the front sea pousada, then fantastic healthy breakfast and we hang out at the front sea view lounge working on the phones until the afternoon. Then swim in the ocean, run along the shore and long walks around the island with a low tight. In the evening we came back home to our friends house and cooked fresh prawns, sea food and fish from a local fisherman. Then we slept there. We had to homes without any extra fees, day home: Pousada Encanto da Ilha where we paid daily only R$15/€2 each for breakfast and the house of our friends were we had dinners and stay over night. It was such a great balance to have both, poisada's host who treated us as their family and house's hosts who have us their trust. Both treated us as a part of their family.
As we lost some money on flights during the pandemics, now we had it all. Our daily budget was €2 each a day. Basically we could survive with €100 each a month.
As the time was running even if we were leading very relaxed and healthy life style I reached the point that I wanted to find my tropical paradise home here. I wanted to set up the tropical brunch of FlowMove Retreat Centre in Brazil. It was a right time to do so.
I had only 2 weeks to find the property, money and purchase it. The proprieties here were still very cheap more or less like in Poland. Instead of investing in another property in Poland I decided to invest in a property in tropics so I can rent it out and run the aerial yoga retreats all year long. Flights to Brazil are the most economical ones from Europe to tropics €400 return each.
I knew that it was a right opportunity to do something meaningful here. I've been searching for this place for all my life and this place found me. There was always a question mark on every beautiful place I have ever visited but this place was the only one which made me stop. Also because of the pandemics and lack of job in London I preferred to stay somewhere isolated and safe. The paradise found me and I wanted to pay a contribute to the universe for that.
I knew a little bit the reality and economy of the island and right people. I started physically looking for a property as there was nowhere here any real estate agency. This is a little island with only over 3000 habitantes.
I liked the location of Pousada Encanto da Ilha in front of the ocean.
I found a perfect spot near by, the only spot left on sale by the ocean on the beach.
I've asked my Brazilian friend Rosangela from Recife to do some negotiations for me. So she did. I wanted to buy two proprieties from two different owners near by each other's. I didn't want anyone to build near by. The size of the joined land was approx 1500m2 with one built shallot. In total was €35000 and I wanted to buy it by €25000. We couldn't reach the agreement. I've asked my host Saboya to intervene and help me to find the right place. He ended up being a Native from Amazonia. All his family members had houses in front of the ocean on Algodoal island. One of his siblings was selling the land I wanted to buy. The owner of pousada Saboya was going to help me to find the place of my dreams. He indicated us few places to view. He mentioned about the isolated places on sale on Camboihna island. It takes 15 minutes of sailing on a little local boat to the village of Camboihna. This is a very laid back eco reserve. There are only few houses with natives and the vegetation is stunning with mrongoves, beach and dunes. There were two proprieties on sale. One owned by Swiss lady - Benedetta - eco resort with abandoned cabanas and large sailing pool. Another big chunk of land 120-140m with some house (R$60000/€10000) owned by Saboya's friend Hiji.
I was waiting for some miracle to happen so I could buy last minute the cheap propriety.
Ideally would be to purchase a very cheap one in the Algodoal village €5000, the other one front sea in Algodoal €25000 and the one in the middle of nowhere in Camboihna €15000.
Finally I found a very big property 5000m2 of lend with fee proprieties well built by the ocean in Camboihna 15000€.
I’ve almost bought the propriety with the boat.
When I was about closing the purchase deal with the owner of Babylon in Algodoal Island, my friend Marcia offered me to sell her pousada. Her spot was the best in front of the ocean in my favourite spot on Algodaol island - Princesinha beach. I bought the property for 10000€. I knew that I had to do a lot of refurbishment in order to prefer the property for retreats and rental. I bought the propriety on the second month of my stay in Algodoal.
It’s been full on since then. For the last month of purchase so many things happened. The owner turned into the nightmare. She was absolutely negative about every single thing I wanted to do. She was unhappy about the noise of the sanding machine to build my outdoor trapeze platform for aerial activities. I haven’t even started yet the works in the house and she already screwed up all my relationships with workers, and between me and her. We both wished that our paths have never passed. She is a selfish middle age native lady from Belem who is supper jealous of me buying her property. She makes my work impossible with all the excuses she finds: Covid, working hours limits because of the natural reserve. She blackmails me with the local authorities who are going to take my outdoor circus structure away and so on. In between my construction master’s ex-wife’s jealousy scenes in front of my house and other horrendous scenes I try to do my never ending construction work and my daily workout such as swim in front of my house, running and yoga. There is always this amazing side to my propriety of being in the most beautiful place in the world. But there is a very sad side to it of being surrounded by ignorant natives who don’t really have anything better to do than other people’s lives like mine. My live seems to be the most exotic one for them. I was hoping it was going to be the other way around.
TBC...
The best place to visit on the Algodoal island except from FlowMove Retreat Centre Brazil is:
Pousada Ninho do Guará
Lodging in Pará
https://m.facebook.com/pages/category/Hotel---Lodging/O-ninho-do-Guará-110850110460579/
The local. Music Is Carimbo
https://youtu.be/jZTDyXSpVNc
